Driving Lights - D3/RRS

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Originally Posted by Disomania

I'm just going to put a pair of lights on the ARB bar. Just need to decide 2 things:

1. Brand of light. Really like the Hella alloy ones but at $1500 each from a dealer...

2. Rectangular or Round? There's a few pictures I've found with round, and they look OK, but have not seen any with the rectangular lights.

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Buy Hella Rallye 4000s and convert them to HID. I have done this and the results are brilliant (no pun intended) for far less outlay than the Hella Predator (HID).

I put an HID kit in my Super Oscars.
Nice bright spread for the tracks and winding roads.:D:D
All I need now are a couple of small pencil beams.

Older halogen lights converted to HID don't look like expensive HIDs so might be less likely to be stolen and they're much cheaper to replace if they do get stolen.

Edit: With all this discussion about lights, I revisited my setup and discovered that there's very little light straight ahead because the possum lights don't shine low enough in that spot. Therefore the driving lights are going back on when some more ballasts arrive, having used them when replacing the halogens.

After discussion with ARB, I was told that IPF have new lights coming soon. Prediction is they will be LED so that should be interesting.

With HID lights so common now, the theft of them seems to be dropping off - unless they are the type with the internal ballast - seems they are popular items.

I upgraded my IPF 800 (1 pencil and 1 spread beam) on my Disco 3 to HID for $70 each and what a difference. My wife even noticed the difference and they are only 35W bulbs. The conversion took 1 hour for the first and 30min for the second. I mounted the balast on the rail behind the grill and all is fine.

I'll just buy the HID version straight up - or LED if that's what the new ones are. Should really set off the front.

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Originally Posted by Geedublya

Usually Bi Zenons use the same HID bulb for low and high beam with a mechanical shutter changing the light spread. This prevents any problems with the HID taking time to warm up.
As far as I can tell the Bi Zenons on the D3 work this way with an auxiliary QH high beam light also.

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I cannot speak for the D3 but in the equivalent RRS the Bi Xenons provide low beam only - when you switch to Hi beam there is no change in the Bi Xenons at all. (checked them tonight) Other than using less power for the same light, I do not see what advantage the Bi Xenons are, as the quality of light from the drivers seat is no better than a normal halogen low beam.

Garry

Hi Garry,
They're called bi-xenons because they operate as both low beam and high beam. If the light output doesn't change on high beam then there's a fault somewhere. There's a shutter that shades the globe for low beam but moves out of the way for high beam. Did you switch to high beam or flash high beam?

There is no change in the Bi Xenons when I actually switch from low beam to high beam and then switch back. Obviously the hi beam halogens go on then off but no change in the Bi Xenons.

Garry

I've read about an occasional sticky shutter mechanism but on both lights seems strange.

Do you know whether the previous owner only drove in the city, perhaps never using high beam?