Its a machanical part isnt it with moveing parts etc, to suggest it wouldnt fail is like saying my D3 will never break down ever. I think the D3 has enough things to break down without adding another, just my opinion :)
connock
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As I expected we have made it up to Hervey Bay and the fuel gauge is starting to work and is now sitting on 3/4's so I guess when I fill her up tomorrow I should fit the 90lts of the aux tank and 20lts from the original..110lts or thereabouts...I will let you know
Graeme
Well I was a little out but not bad...I put 125 litres in the car today so that is the aux tank and about a 1/3rd of the main tank..
So at least we know once the aux is empty the gauge will start working and give you a more accurate idea of how much fuel you have left.
So..it seems like the Ol tank is not a bad option...simple yet effective
Now that we are at H Bay I have been able to give the car a tidy up and found the invoice for the tank from OL in its folder...It was $1185 plus fitting of $275 plus GST.
From the last fill we have travelled 949km which included Fraser Island and sand travel so 949km / 125lts gives us 7.5 km/lt..bearing in mind we are fully loaded with a water tank inside and roof tent and awning on the top is not too bad.
The aux tank has been a worthwhile addition
I put the Opposite Lock one on my D3. The spare tire went on a roof rack then off again after the other half forgot to lower the suspension coming into the garage- Yep 15mm to high!:eek: Just put a spare wheel carrier on the back. Wonder if people think it is not a D3 now:D
The tank is great. The fitting is very sturdy. Opposite Lock Mitchem Vic suggested it is fine for a bit of belly scrapping. The tank drains into the main tank almost perfectly so my fuel gausge stay at 100% for about 800km before the main tank starts to drain:)
A lot better and safer than carrying JERRYs :):)
The beast (my wifes name for the D3) is getting about fully worked up now.:D
For these tanks how is the fuel content of the auxiliary tank displayed inside - via switch through the standard fuel gauge or is there a separate gauge. If the latter, anyone got a pic?
Thanks
Garry
With the various aux tanks fitted, can fuel be directed to only the main tank when filling for normal use so as to not carry the extra weight unless required?
Hi Graeme
I put 100 litres into almost empty main and AUX tank yesterday. The fuel goes into the AUX tank then drains into the main tank.
The main tank is showing 100% today so little if any of the 100 litres is in the AUX tank. I guess you could put two filler caps/ pipes but I don't think you would have any reason to do so. If you had pumps between the tanks like a Patrol you would need that. The KISS principle of gravity feed to the main tank works perfectly so you do not need to carry any more fuel than you want to. I fill it to max any time I see cheap prices or for a big trip and only top up the main tank otherwise:) I agree carrying 200kg of fuel is not needed most of the time. Gravity works for me on my D3.
Thanks. A disadvantage would be that you never know just how much fuel is on board unless both tanks are full as there's no feedback from the gauge until some has been used from the main tank. In practice it might not be a problem though because if starting on an excursion that needs a full tank to get back home, add enough to what-ever is already showing on the gauge. I occasionally do a 900 km round trip that my D2 would do on 1 tank but the D4 wont, so it would be good to only put an extra 20L in at the start.
As promised above some pictures of the instalation of my Long Ranger (distributed by ARB ) tank. Installation was straightforward if time consuming and the instructions were good although they do assume some knowledge of fitting accessories.
Tank with hoses fitted prior to installation
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...k/IMG_3483.jpg
Fuel filler before modification, this picture with the flare and inner guard removed.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...k/IMG_3481.jpg
New filler assy fitted
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...k/IMG_3486.jpg
Route for wiring for fuel gauge / transfer pump switch. This differs from the install instructions which suggest you run the cable externally and drill a hole in the drivers side floor. Cables are easy to run under the kick plates to the drivers side kick panel where they are routed up to the dash and there is an existing grommet in thgis position.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...k/IMG_3487.jpg
The finished product
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...k/IMG_3488.jpg
It took me a leisurely day and a bit to fit, the most time consuming part being fitting the gauge and wiring. The instructions suggest 5 hours, and you could do it in this time with a hoist and a helper. Overall happy with the tank except for the hose clamp that I had left loose which meant I had to pull off the wheel and the inner guard to tighten tonight.
Regards,
Tote