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Thread: DC/DC CTEK D250S Dual in D4

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sunshine Coast - Queensland
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    355
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    Iannicki. I tried feeding a regulated solar supply into my setup like yours and it went all cock-a-hoop. Fortunately I could bypass the solar regulator on the panels. So I say go option 3 as well. Matti

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Ellendale Tasmania.
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    We have a DC/DC in our camper run from the car and while it does work, it doesn't charge the camper battery fully, we charge the battery before we leave home from our 240 charger and the DC/DC charge keeps it topped up while on the move.

    Now this is good for the first couple of nights, but if we move to another camp, the DC/DC doesn't seem to re-charge the camper battery fully to the next camp, this was very noticeable after our first camp was 3 days of rain and cloudy weather and what we had to do was break out the inverter and 240 charger to charge the camper battery off the auxiliary battery in the car overnight even after a full days drive, the water pump barely worked we had to use the hand pump on the first night.

    So now we just have the USI160 that charges the other two batteries in the car, it now charges the camper battery while on the move, the USI160 allows you to hook up a solar panel if needed also, to be honest I didn't think it would make that much difference, but I was surprised at how much better it is now.

    Anyway no need to top up the camper battery now when we get to camp, all good now.

    Baz.
    Last edited by Redback; 20th March 2018 at 09:45 AM.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  3. #33
    DiscoMick Guest
    Solar regulators often limit the charge to 10 amps. What does the CTek do - 20 amps?
    I wouldn't connect a panel with a regulator to a DC-DC. One or the other.
    I just have the solar panels with regulators connected directly to the battery on both the camper and Defender. Put the regulator close to the battery if possible.
    I do have a DC-DC on the camper, but the solar doesn't go through it, it just compensates for voltage drop from the vehicle.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Warwick Qld
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    1,977
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    PWM controller on the solar panel, 3-way Anderson plug, one to car (aux battery and via Traxide controller to start battery) and one to trailer battery. Decent sized cables from aux to trailer = little or no voltage drop. All batteries fully charged within a few hours of leaving camp. (Standard Disco 1 alternator)
    -----
    You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.
    -----

    1999 Disco TD5 ("Bluey")
    1996 Disco 300 TDi ("Slo-Mo")
    1995 P38A 4.6 HSE ("The Limo")
    1966 No 5 Trailer (ARN 173 075) soon to be camper
    -----

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