:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
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:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
:angel:
Hi 400hpongas,
Jacked the rear wheel off the deck this morning, ignition key out, in Park doors unlocked wheel didn't turn in either direction. Hand brake was also off, never use it, my 2005 TDV6 SE doesn't have an E-Diff.
Hope that helps.
P.S. Sorry I missed the bit about the gearbox being in neutral, my mistake. Keen to help didn't read the post properly. I'm off for a fathers day lunch, I'll do this later... Bugger
Thanks to the BLKNIGHT , what he says is correct, because you cant neutralise the Transfer case (well,I dont know how to do it !!!) and Ive left the thing in Park ,then it make sense that no wheel will turn. With the auto in Neutral , it should turn .
Ill try again with the auto in neutral !!!!!Besides Nomad 9 will probabably confirm it anyway !!!
Hi 400HPONGAS,
Sorry I didn't get back to you yesterday afternoon, got delayed at the Kalamunda pub having a leisurely fathers day lunch. Anyway jacked the rear wheel up this afternoon and I can't get the ignition key out with the gearbox in neutral so that has put paid to that test unfortunately. Plus the suspension started doing a lot of funny stuff when I closed the door with the ignition key in, the engine off and the gearbox in neutral. Basically collapsed and went to its lowest setting.
I restarted the engine and everything returned to normal, not sure I'll be doing that again in a rush. Sorry I can't help you with the request unless I frig the ignition key lock with the Faultmate, not really that keen to do that. I think the response from Black Knight covers the issue.
Every LR owner should learn how to get the auto box out of park with the ignition off. There's a white tab near the rear right corner of the gear selector mechanism that needs to be operated, after having removed appropriate covers for the particular D3/D4/RRS/RR model.
Thanks Nomad9, I jacked mine again, this time with Trans in neutral , all was well ,the wheel turned ,Something tells me the Stealers and those in the know ,can send/imput some code that neutralises the Transfer case for either freight or Towing requirements . The reason IVe been jacking it is to try and track down the Vibration I get everytime I touch the Brakes. Changed the front rotors and pads , no difference, changed the rear pads as discs looked okay , no difference,Changed the front tyres ,no difference. Changed the Tyre pressures upto 60PSI and then down to 15PSI ,still no difference.
While I was Kevs this arvo jacked it up and ran the dial indicator over the rear discs looking for runout/warpage etc. Found drivers side had no more than .001 runout , Did the Passenger side and it has .012 or 12 thou !!. Now that doesnt seem like much but considering the good side only had 1 thou , perhaps this could be causing the Vibe. Also checked and adjusted Park brake which was only found to be little loose.
Ah well , ordered some new rear discs and Ill hope that fixes it .(But why? , its usually the hub that has the runout ! so perhaps there some rubbish stuck behind the disc where it mounts to the Hub ? another can of worms
ISTR that the TC uses planetary gears and a clutch so there is no neutral, only high or low range.Quote:
Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS
Hi 400HPONGAS,
12 thou seems to feel way outside the tolerance, I wouldn't of expected any more than a couple as per the other side. There were some rotors on fleabay recently, the price didn't seem that bad. I've found that Brakes West on Norma Road in Myaree to be the most reasonable, they keep most of this sort of stuff on the shelf, saves paying the freight and the wait if you require instant gratification (for car stuff) like myself..........
Hi Graeme,
Very true, I'll consider myself, "teached". Forgot about that one...........Ta
Max rear brake disk runout is .09mm.
Garry