It sounds a bit steep but maybe they've assumed you'll want an oil change.Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteD3
Generally, LR allow the dealer 1hr for a basic health check (+ any top ups) so I would expect it to be around the $100 - $200 mark.
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It sounds a bit steep but maybe they've assumed you'll want an oil change.Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteD3
Generally, LR allow the dealer 1hr for a basic health check (+ any top ups) so I would expect it to be around the $100 - $200 mark.
Hi WhiteD3,
Me, a bit of a twist on the theme, I change the filter ever 5000 klms and the oil between 10k and 12k, whatever is convenient. I run a full synthetic 5W-30. I take a sample of the oil after 5k and also after 10k and get the sample analysed to make sure I haven't got anything untoward happening. The analysis adds a bit of a science to the oil changes. The majority of the kilometres is done towing just so you know the vehicle isn't used just around town picking the kids up.
The oil is usually well within the cleanliness spec at 12k so I don't believe I'm leaving the changes to long. I don't think I would be game enough to push the changes out to 20 -24k myself. $120 of oil every 12k seems cheap insurance against the thousands you could have to spend.
I give high priority to changing diff & transfer case oils frequently because there's no filter.
Perhaps an interesting point about 2.7 oil change intervals is that the oil spec is Ford spec 913B which is not an extended drain interval oil as it only has ACEA A1/B1 specification. However Ford strongly advise that oil with spec 913C be used instead of all previous 913B recommendations with its better wear and sludge prevention spec of A5/B5 (backwards compatible with A1/B1), which is also an extended drain interval spec. Castrol's now obsolete SLX Professional C1 5W-30, recommended by LR for all 2.7 and non-DPF 3.0 engines, has A5/B5 spec, as did the DPF version SLX Professional Powerflow C1 5W-30. This suggests that there should be no difference in oil drain intervals between the 2.7 and 3.0 if using the A5/B5 spec oil. However if using an oil with only A1/B1 spec in a non-DPF 3.0 as documented by LR as acceptable then I suggest that the 3.0 extended drain interval should not apply.
Hey Graeme, spoke with my dealers service manager today re: diff & transfer case oil changes. He suggested to have it done at 120,000klms.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Cheers, Craig
I've been told by Austral that while the manual for the D4 says 12 months, the D3 was 6 months. Their view is its the same motor and so recommend the same service intervals for the D4 as per the D3.
They going to change the oil and filter in this first service.
I had the front & rear diff oils changed at 9K and again at 45K and will have them changed again near end of warranty. I want the diffs to last and also want early warning if problems. 120K is too far past the end of warranty to be of any use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco4SE
Interesting..............I may get mine done earlier for the piece of mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Thanks, Craig
Hi Graeme,
Considering the price of oil and the varying conditions we subject the engines to I personally think that adding a bit of science to the process by getting an oil analysis done does pay for its self and also gives you a better peace of mind.
I run the Royal Purple 5W-30 oil in my engine, I've been through the spec sheet and in all honesty I can't find the references you mention, not sure why, am I looking in the wrong place?
I've also done some film strength tests testing various brands of oil both mineral semi synthetic and full synthetic, the oil I choose to use came out the best, seems logical that is why I use it. Also when I've had a look inside the engine when I take covers and caps off using the philosophy I use you could eat your dinner of the inside of the engine which I find encouraging.
I always change the filter at 5k and the oil at 10k, I found on the one occasion I let the filter and the oil go to 10k the cleanliness numbers were a bit worse than I would have liked, still good but not "comfortable right". Viscocity and all the other important elements were spot on.
As its an American oil the manufacturers may not have bothered with specifying what European ACEA ratings it meets. However because of a few reported 3.0 bearing failures claimed by LR to be from using the wrong oil, I'll only use an oil that meets LR's stated ACEA ratings, viscosity and Ford specs. The availability of LR's recommended oil at a reasonable price means that's what I'll use. I'd like to think that I would use oil test results to establish change intervals but with my current mostly country usage pattern I'll change at around 20K.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad9