Off road equipment.

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Originally Posted by Redback

Alloy is hard to bend back into shape, when I bent these and had to bend them back so we could open the door, I broke them at the weld, where they had been re-welded a couple times before from looking at them, once by us when we first got them (as Gordon said they are second hand)

So I have gone to steel because they are a lot easier to repair, price isn't issue as they are being replaced through insurance, with steel I can repair them myself, I can't weld alloy and alloy can't be bashed or bent back into shape.

Baz.

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One of the issues with alloy is the HAZ (heat affected zone) around any welding will have a much lower strength than the rest. Some recent posts from Dougal on the subject:

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Originally Posted by Dougal

1000 series aluminiums are showing up on matweb as H treated, which is mechanical cold worked. Depending on the sections you've got you can get a harder fractured grain in the un-touched aluminium which will transition to a softer and coarser grain in the weld heat affected zone (HAZ). So if it's going to break, it'll do it right at the edge of the HAZ.

You would be limited to annealing the whole radiator to soften it all up and destress the welded areas.

I don't know what grade the radiator builders use though.

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Originally Posted by Dougal

6061 has plenty of strength after a T6 heat-treatment (solution heat, quench, artificial aged), but touch it with a welder and it turns to that same as cast soft stuff Ben just mentioned.

People suffer endless pain trying to repair 6061 bike frames with heat-treating them. Weld, ride, crack. Repeat until you bin the bike. A full heat-treatment brings the whole frame back to it's original strength, but I can't imagine anyone doing that to a radiator. I'm also wondering how a radiator would handle the quench part of the T6 heat-treatment.

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So any high-strength alloy needs to undergo heat treatment after welding, however there are very few heat treaters in Australia, and even fewer who have experience with Al.

To give you an idea, Maxi-Drive used to send a batch of parts to melbourne once or twice a year for heat treatment.

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Originally Posted by Steve223

great, may I ask what the water tank system is and where you purchased it?

Also could you give me some info about the secondary battery as I like to replicate this.

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The water tank is a "Boab" product and the second battery is from "Traxide" - both very good products. :)

Stephen - you asked for some photos of how the cargo barrier "bolts" into the rear of the car ... here they are,
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/alb...2/IMG_1907.JPG

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/alb.../0IMG_1905.JPG

http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/alb.../0IMG_1909.JPG

hope this helps.
cheers

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Originally Posted by gghaggis

So my view is that the alloy sliders (as opposed to steel) are lighter, stronger but harder to repair.

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I have a set of GOE sliders and as it happens did bend one of the side bars last weekend while driving around and around (and around) the Adventure Circuit at the Wandin 4WD show.
This morning I set up some 50mm square tube, wood blocks, chains and a small hydraulic jack. Managed to gently pull the bar back pretty much where it should be, you probably wouldn't notice now unless I pointed it out.
A different story if the bar was actually creased, but with a gentle bend it really was no problem to nudge back into shape.

So no panel damage and the bar is only slightly worse off cosmetically, just missing a little powder coating.

4 x 4 Intellegence Rear Wheel carrier fitted, 12 / 10mm high tensile bolts hold it to the rear inner steel bar!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/04/903.jpg

Also fitted now the Brown Davis 120ltr auxillary tank:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2012/11/78.jpg

Awesome set up Rich.
How much did the rear wheel carrier set you back??

Cheers, Craig

Pm Craig,
Original price was $1600!!!

Got a special deal contact Michael Simootin:
sales@4x4de.com.au

I was tosing up either to get this carrier or the Front Runner, Michael explained that this carrier is superior in strength. It can easily take the weight of a 35" tire not that a 35 would fit a D3, D4 or RRS. ;)

Thanks Rich. Something else for me to do down the track a bit.

Need to catch up after purchasing the 18" wheels through Gordon & LTZ's (same as yours). Hope to have them fitted by mid next week.

Cheers, Craig

Hi folks,
I have just installed my GOE sliders, compressor plate and transmission plate. The transmission plate replaces the plastic one from Land Rover. All pretty straight forward to fit.
I think they look the business. I hope I don't need to use them, but I am confident if something does happen that my D3 will be looked after.
Doug

GOE make nice stuff ... a few of my dollars have jumped into Gordon's back pocket - :D