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Hi Graeme , I think that the wire is to isolate the controller, and the voltage is detected from the main cable connected to the main battery.
I used a multi meter to check the voltage from the spare fuse slots in the fuse box in the engine bay next to the main battery. The slot only had one terminal, assume the other side fitted in production when options order. Checked it when car was off , i.e. open door and bonnet with ignition off, 0 volts and when car ignition on 12volts.
Rears
David
Is there power at the fuse position with the engine running? Is the voltage the same as at the main battery? When there is power, is there still power with the sense wire connected and if so, is it still the full battery voltage? Which unused fuse position are you using?
Hi Graeme, the fuse is F7 in the engine compartment. Looking from the front of the car it is the fourth from the back on the left row.
I have just started the car and the voltage at the main battery and the fuse are the same floating around 12.2 - 12.4v , the second battery is at 12.5v steady. The light on controller is flashing which I think shows it's active but not charging/connected, which makes sense.
Regards
David
What's the voltage with the lights on and engine running? Some load should trigger some charging so after a while the voltage should increase enough for the aux battery to start receiving charge - it would be good to determine the cut-in voltage. I'll have a look at what F7 is meant for but it having the same voltage as the battery is a good start.
Edit: Fuse 7 has no info so can't tell from the handbook how or when its powered.
Hi Greame, The guys at Piranha said that it won't kick in until 13.8 - 14v. I haven't checked as It is taking 15 min plus for the voltage to get to a charing Level even if the car is already warm. Tomorrow I,ll have to take the car out of the garage and sit in the driveway running and check it so I don't gas myself waiting.
Seems like I need to do a lot more log trips to keep my batteries charged, Broome,The Kimberley, Alice Springs, I suppose that wouldn't too much of a struggle (I wish)
Regards
David
Yeah, some long trips like those would at least be worth a try...Quote:
Originally Posted by DM Disco
How old is your vehicle and does it have the latest software? Mine's a late 09 build with a major s/w update in 2010.
I just checked some voltages. My VSR cut-in 13.7 cut-out 12.8
Before starting: Main 12.35 aux (AGM) 12.45 with the vehicle last run Fri a/n for an 8K run to the local PO then back.
Start engine & within a couple of seconds: 14.45 & VSR has connected
During the next few minutes 14.35 but momentarily dropping to 14.30
Lights on high beam & driving lights on: 14.38 steady for a few minutes
Lights off: 14.38 for the 1st few minutes but momentarily 14.55 or 14.35 before returning to 14.38 each time then gradually rising to 14.40
Several minutes later dropped to 14.35 then steady for at least another 5 minutes.
Edit: Engine stopped: main 12.65 (high freq cleaning in progress) aux 12.90 VSR is disconnected.
Is your voltmeter digital or analogue? Analogue meters are often not very accurate. Does your controller's indicator flash with the ignition on but the engine not started?
Edit: I just re-read your 1st post re Piranha verifying your low voltages. Your D4 charging has a problem.
Hi Graeme, the build date is Feb 2011 and not sure about software. It hasn't been for a service yet so it will be as from factory /dealer.
I am using a handheld digital meter which is fairly accurate.
I agree I think that my alternator is the problem , taking too long to come up to charging voltage.
I did find a Pdf on my DBS (link bellow) and 13.4v on the trigger wire is mentioned.
http://www.piranhaoffroad.com.au/med...20Aug%2008.pdf
I think my next step is to get an incar battery monitor to keep an eye on things, while I wait until the 16th to get Landrover to look at it.
Regards
David
Perhaps only software rather than the alternator itself, but definitely a charging problem. Perhaps also worth taking along my voltages as an example of another 3.0 D4.
Hi Graeme , thank for the help, I will take my Ipad with your info when I get the car looked at.
Hope they are as helpfull as the people on this forum.
Again thanks
Regards
David
Hi david and do you have a display screen in the centre of the dash or just basic LCD.
If you have the full screen, bring up the “secret” info screen and check your operating voltages as you drive.
If you don’t have the full screen you can make up a low current extension lead and run it from the cranking battery terminals into the cab and connect it to your DMM.
Just idling in the driveway is no indication of whether your alternator voltage is OK or not.
You can use thin speaker wire but still put a small fuse in the positive wire, close to the battery terminal.
You can then get accurate voltage readings while driving.