ZF 6HP26 Maintenance

Thanks DJ, on the D4 you need to remove the cross member to get the valve body out. Transmission stays in the car. Removing cross member is really easy and gives you so much more room. The cross over pipe on the exhaust is still in the way, but there is no physical way with the cross member in place.

I put a jack under the back of the transmission and lifted about 50mm to get thr pan and filter out. Then leaving the pan off, lowered down and allowed the valve body to drain out overnight, collected about another 3-4 litres from memory. Once the valve body was out, it still drains as there's fluid in all the galleries. The torque converter also continues to drain, best to leave a tray underneath the whole time.

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Originally Posted by Grappler

Im planning my next auto trans oil change for my 2006 RRS 235K km Im considering replacing the 4 rubber tube seals and the adaptor seal for the mechatronic assembly Is it possible to remove the mechatronic assembly (to replace the 5 seals), with the transmission in the car? I have upgraded previously to a metal pan/filter, but can the mechatronics assembly manouevre past the x member? Also Im interested to know how much extra oil drais when the mechatronics valve assemly is removed? The only info Ive seen online relates to ZF6hp26 in BMW and it has clear access to drop the valve unit

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What symptoms are you having ? , been doing research myself and looks like i may need to do the seals as well or hold out and do the valve body as Eric has done.

It's easiest to do all the seals at once.

This includes:
Sump gasket
Mechatronic seal
Valve body to transmission seals (4 off)
Valve body separator plate
Solenoids and foam seal to valve body

I also did all of the valve body end of line seals and the accumulator as well.

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

It's easiest to do all the seals at once.

This includes:
Sump gasket
Mechatronic seal
Valve body to transmission seals (4 off)
Valve body separator plate
Solenoids and foam seal to valve body

I also did all of the valve body end of line seals and the accumulator as well.

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I figured it would be, just at the planning stage.

Yes, definitely. I forgot about the pump seal in the last post. The issue is over time the valve body to transmission seals get pushed up into the transmission body too far, creating a gap between the valve body and transmission, leading to pressure losses and so poor shifting etc.

The mechatronic seal is pretty easy but fiddly. Just ensure you've got the alignment tabs lined up and it's about a quarter turn to lock or unlock


A couple of photos of when I did mine,they are posted elsewhere on this forum as well. The last one shows the new pump seal and vb to trans seals.

175 000km on the transmission at that point.

Attachment 152195
Attachment 152196
Attachment 152197

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Thanks DJ, on the D4 you need to remove the cross member to get the valve body out. Transmission stays in the car. Removing cross member is really easy and gives you so much more room. The cross over pipe on the exhaust is still in the way, but there is no physical way with the cross member in place.

I put a jack under the back of the transmission and lifted about 50mm to get thr pan and filter out. Then leaving the pan off, lowered down and allowed the valve body to drain out overnight, collected about another 3-4 litres from memory. Once the valve body was out, it still drains as there's fluid in all the galleries. The torque converter also continues to drain, best to leave a tray underneath the whole time.

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Im relying on my poor memory, but from what I remember from last time I had the sump off the transmission, the x member is not removable on the RRS.

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

What symptoms are you having ? , been doing research myself and looks like i may need to do the seals as well or hold out and do the valve body as Eric has done.

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Not got any symptoms. The transmission runs fine. Its just that other sites recommend changing out the seals as a preventative measure.
I was keen the change out the seals which I have available, but only if the valve body is easily dropped from the gearbox. On a RRS it may not be feasible

Do the noted specialist transmission service shops advise this extra procedure once the gearboxes get to the third or more oil flush (or would you have to ask)?

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Do the noted specialist transmission service shops advise this extra procedure once the gearboxes get to the third or more oil flush (or would you have to ask)?

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On one site I read that the seals should be replaced at 60-70k .