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Garry, where does the original post say that they changed the valve first on his car? It says that they changed it on one or more of the first ones (at least that what I think he is saying), but that the first thing that they did this time was disconnect the LLAMS.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
One of us is reading it wrong!
Your right - my bad - was influenced by a post that implied the valve was actually replaced.Quote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7
Garry
Sorry, I jumped to the wrong conclusion. I understand that your kit is being replaced. DPL hopefully will receive a few kits today that have looms that have undergone a new testing process.Quote:
Originally Posted by NomadicD3
A loom problem has been discovered whereby pins may not be properly locked, almost entirely in the connector into which the vehicle's front harness plugs. There is only 1 connector that does not use a locking plate that ensures all pins/sockets are fully seated. This problem was discovered earlier this week as a flow-on from having received new looms with an obvious number of these improperly assembled connectors. Suspension faults caused by this assembly fault are unlikely to be overcome by just reseating the connectors as once a pin is pushed back, its likely to stay there. Its contact may have been sufficient initially but with vibration over time, the pin can slip back. The fix for this fault is simple - push the wire in properly!
The socket improvement was co-incidental with the use of modules that have 2 ICs rather than 4 which were sent to DPL in early December. These kits have the larger knob and are fitted with a large washer. Anyone with Llams who has suspension faults is most welcome to send their loom to me to have the contacts improved.
I now have a test jig to check all LLAMS loom connections using a LED for each wire. Testing a few new harness shows that the sockets that I've been tightening do sometimes need tightening, as wriggling unmodified connectors sometimes causes some LEDs to flicker. Pulling on all wires together in the grey female connector doesn't cause any lost contacts but pulling on wires on the long end only will pull the end of the connector out enough to cause loss of contact on the wires at that end. A returned loom that caused an unspecificed fault that seemed to be OK showed a loose connection on the earth wire socket to the left rear height sensor. These sockets are normally good but poor connections can now be identified and fixed.
Edit: No poor contacts were found in 4 new looms that already had the improvement done.
Hi Garry, re: the BB6 wheels, I too have similar concerns however I'm still confident that they are capable of handling almost all situations they are put in however, as stated in a previous post, in the event of any heavy impact I believe that they need to be inspected more closely and rechecked more regularily than other wheels. Now, as I have been travelling, I miss alot of posts but I was wondering if you recall any other posts that you referred to that have mentioned the wheel cracking similar to the photo I posted? I'd be interested as to how much damage occured and what sort of impact it took to create the damage.
Re: LLAMS Yep Garry you were spot on, Graeme, was incontact straight away and as you can tell from his post is all over the issue he was having with connections. As I said earlier the LLAMS was in place for ever a year and used extensively so it's certainly not something that is a major issue.
PS- Thought i'd add one more photo of the damage for interestes sake:)
cheers
Brian
Brian - I cannot recall the specifics and a search does not throw up anything but I thought there were maybe two posts within the past 12 months where people had problems with their wheels - now there are plenty of people who have no issues as well - but then a decent whack will wreck any wheel.
Garry
Was it this post?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...int-worth.html
Hi All, Just a quick note re: BB6 wheels. I had a long conversation with the owner of performance wheels a couple of days ago and he has just run another batch of the wheels and has taken several out of that batch and tested each of them extensively. The results have consistently shown the only time the wheels may crack was when the nuts weren't tightened to the specification as per the wheel which, according to him, is 200nm or about 147ft/lbs. This seems rather high but that is what he recommends. Interestingly the landrover recommendation is 95ft/lbs.
Hey Garry, yeah I did a search too and couldn't find anything specific but thks all the same.
Hi Rich, yeah that was one of the stories I read however I think that was a different issue. I notice that there was never an outcome on that posted either??
regards
Brian
NomadicD3
That's because it has NOT been resolved yet.
Sent the wheels &tyres back to Mt Isa, then it started to rain, no trucks, no driving to Mt Isa.
Maybe in a couple of weeks.
Jonesfam