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:D, um, no... Dougal is correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS
Diesels run large amounts of excess air as the intake is unrestricted. Under most conditions there is enough air that you could breathe pure exhaust and still survive...
(and before anyone asks - yes I have done the experiment - using lab animals not humans...)
Gday Garry,Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
Its a strange fault as it tells you excessive EGR gases detected, but according to me it cant have any EGR gases where the senser is, so it must be detecting the excess air in the intake system due to the butterfly being removed.
Anyway there seems to be enough people trying to get this to work, so im sure it will get sorted at some stage.
Cheers Ean
My check engine light is on - last time it showed a EGR fault but turned out to be the connector - I am waiting for a Faultmate to arrive so I can read my current faults. I was hoping your experience would be positive and I would do the same but if I have real egr issues this time it looks like replacement which I am not looking forward to.
Garry
Is the car in limp mode Garry? As with my EGR fault theb car would reset the system once turned off then restarted, and the dash lights would go out and the car would function normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
I am happy to send you the blanking Kit if you want to try the excersize yourself.
Cheers Ean
Hi Ean,
As before the check engine light is on but the car runs fine - no issues at all. While some fault lights come on when the fault is there it goes away when the fault goes away but is kept in memory - however I understand that with the check engine light it stays on irrespective whether the fault has been fixed or not until it is cleared by a code reader. That certainly happened previously when I had my scan gauge - the fault light stayed on until cleared.
Thanks for the offer of the blanks but I will hold off until a solution is definitely developed. I am hopeful that as before it was just the connector to the LH EGR that has logged the fault and that the Faultmate will clear it. However the fault came up on start while still cranking so likely to be something else. EGR faults should show up when driving not on start.
Cheers
Garry
After having limp-home mode with my 3.0 due to airflow plausibility faults caused by 2nd turbo or 2nd turbo air inlet valve problems, I'm wondering if limp-home mode is triggered for any airflow fault. In the case of blocked EGR valves and butterfly removed, an airflow plausibility fault caused by the removed butterfly could be the trigger rather than anything to do with possible faulty EGR valves for emission control. Its unfortunate that just refitting the butterfly for a while couldn't be tolerated but I certainly understand the desire to prevent limp-home mode events. Limp-home on the 3.0 wasn't much better than creep home.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ean Austral
It looks like BAS in the UK has finally come up with a system to blank EGRs in post 07MY 2.7s. It does require the removal of the butterflys but also requires the BAS Engine Remap to be installed and requires additional ECU modification. In the final stages of testing but looks like it is a goer - pricing has not been announced but the remap by itself is in the order of $800-$900.
While I understand how EGRs work one thing I do not understand are the circumstances that make them fail earlier than others. Mine have failed after 65000km and specifically after driving 1400km virtually non stop at 100kph. Others have failed earlier - a mates had his fail at 130,000km and I know of another D3 that has covered 170,000km and it is still on its original EGRs. So what driving conditions make these things fail earlier than later and what makes them last?
Cheers
Garry
Put this up on the Disco3Uk site.
I have the EML on but the engine runs fine so I assume my EGRS are locked in the open position. When codes are cleared the eml stays off until next start and do not come on when the engine is running.
My new EGRs arrived in the post today - usual shipping rip off - Charged 50 pounds but actual cost 30 pounds but that is another story.
Being inquisitive, and as my current codes only occur on start I connected both new EGRs to the electrical connectors to see what actually happens with them on start up - the old EGRs are still connected to the car. I cleared all codes and found they did not come back as you would expect with new egrs and ignition only on. On start the valves remain closed. The car started up OK no codes. So I went for a 20km drive in town and the freeway at 110kph - still no codes - I stopped with the engine running and looked at the valves and they were wide open and then closed as I was watching them - still no codes - drove back home and put the faultmate on - still no codes.
So this does beg the question - are the egr fault codes really generated by differential manifold pressures in that sensors are not receiving expected pressures when signals have been sent to the EGRs for open and close or is it in fact as simple as that if the actual piston that drives the valves does not move as expected a fault is generated. I drove for 40km in situations that would have the valves opening and closing quite a few times and no faults were logged.
So is this as simple as either locking the old egrs in the closed position or blanking at the old EGR and connecting the electrical connectors to either a serviceable EGR or some sort of signal generator.
Changing the car back to normal brought the codes straight back.
The question to myself is - do I leave the new EGRs connected electrically as above and do a longer term test. Or just put the EGRs in and or get Bell Autos new system.
I might put them back in as suggested above and see what happens.
Cheers
Garry
I'd say it depends!
If I had a 08 model and already had the BAS remap I'd definitely purchase the patch.
If I didn't have the BAS remap and disliked the "Lag" on the throttle I'd purchase both and blank the existing EGR's. ;)
If I was happy with the way the vehicle went I'd purchase the MSV Extreme and the patch!
Seeing you have already purchased the Faultmate I'd rule the last option out, I have the BAS remap and blanked EGR's on a 05 and are happy I have not had to replace the existing EGR's.
(Love the BAS remap too)
Rich
Gday Garry, reading the data that B>A>S wrote you need to keep the connection to the EGR even when blanked. I think the faults are logged by a differential to the parameters set in the ECU, and that's why my fault kept coming up as a excess pressure, as I believe it was triggered by the MAF not the EGR, but somewhere its all linked, and I think this is how B>A>S has fooled the ECU, by changing these perameters.
It seems to be a mission to remove them, but would be interesting to see if they can be freed up and lubed somehow.
Cheers Ean