Transmission fault/HDC fault

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Originally Posted by Ashes

More faults this evening that took a couple of goes to bypass. Seems problem is worse with a new brake switch. Does this mean the plug or some sort of feedback to the connector is a possible cause of the fault? Also seemed on a couple of times that the car didn't want to crank over. Stopped and started a few times after a 10 min drive and all good again. or.... battery....

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This is not good re the troubles continuing.

I doubt the new switch is defective, however you might remove it, unplug the electrical connector and just look at the pins to assure yourself that none are bent. I doubt it, however but since the problem is now worse, then I think the solution is somehow within the switch area. You might also with the vehicle parked and the engine idling, just try wiggling the harness right at the switch and see if any error messages pop up or the engine falters in some manner.

Also with the vehicle parked, if you still have the old switch, you could rotate it so that the contacts function, plug the harness in and manually press on the plunger to see if error messages reappear.

Before you do that however, you might back your 3 up near a store window somewhere so that you can check that all the brake lights including the one at the top of the upper hatch are working. Also I noted a comment in a previous post re cleaning the ground terminals at the rear for each of the two tail light assemblies. I have never done that as my tail lights are nice and bright. I do know that when I have had electrical problems with other vehicles, the problem has near always been ground side related, usually due to corrosion.

Just to confuse the issue, I presume the electro viscous fan attached to the radiator is sounding OK? I say "sounding" as about the only hint you might get of a problem with the fan clutch is a roaring noise at startup that does not soon stop and continues on for some time. I had a problem where the clutch would not disengage and that affected engine operation and starting - thought it was the battery or the key operated engine immobilizer and any number of other problems, but it was the intermittent electro viscous fan clutch compounded by a starter motor that was near the end of its useful life. It took me about a year to sort it out, but I never did have to walk.

Hi, I have recently joined and i am blown away at the amount of great content and technical advise.
My RRS 07 also lit up with HDC fault, Transmission fault, Suspension lowered & park brake). Took it to a Non dealer but a Land Rover specialist in Perth who loaded a software upgrade one of the modules. Drove off but it all came up again wih 10 mins. Went back and they suggested replacing the battery and i would of went with that except they did not have the 950cca battery in stock.
After reading the posts i purchased a brake switch, followed the post on how to and 10 mins later walla! No more faults coming up.
Great forums and thanks to all who contributes.
Cheers

Got the car serviced last week, faults codes checked and cleared. No problems for a week now. Will keep monitoring..

Well it seems like my issues have finally been sorted, but probably need a bit more driving to be really confident. Turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump on the engine. Ended up buying one off ebay from Latvia of all places but quite a bit cheaper than here and arrived just fine. Got the car back this morning and everything seems to be running well. Still a bit reluctant to put the foot down or anything like that as I find I am just waiting for the faults but time will tell. So I had definite issues with the brake switch and bulbs but they weren't the real reason for the ongoing faults.

Cheers,

TimJ.

Multiple faults - there often is more than one problem present when one goes to fix whatever. The minor faults do not really seem to be a problem until something else goes and then the minor ones confuse the troubleshooting attempts to find the primary problem.

It seems one then slowly discovers and resolves the minor problems and thinks the fix was the solution only to have the real problem continue until eventually one stumbles onto the primary cause.

I hope the pump is the solution and appreciate you keeping us up to date as that is how we all learn as most certainly we will be next.

Got all the usual faults again last night so switch the ignition off to clear it. Turned the ignition back on and car wouldn't turn over at all.
Took the keys out again, waited a few seconds and then started it again fine.
SWMBO tried starting it this morning, got the fault lights again and she was unable to get the car to turn over after that even after 4 or 5 attempts. I've never had a problem starting the car when there are no fault lights but have had a problem starting it now 4 or 5 times after I get the fault lights. I'll have a look at it tonight and I'll bet it starts fine which doesn't help the troubleshooting:(

Is there something being registered by these faults that will prevent or "protect" the engine from being started?
Also had a couple of park brake faults over the last couple of weeks as well.

Do you recall hearing the engine fan more than usual? By that I mean, the fan remains coupled to the engine rather than reverting to a sort of free wheeling state during normal operation.

I ask that as when I was having starting problems, (no real display of trouble lights or nasty messages, just clicking sounds and no start), part of the fix was to replace the electro viscous fan. (The main problem was eventually resolved by replacing the starting motor that did not yield any specific error codes.)

The electric clutch within the viscous fan takes its instructions from the engine computer rather than just sensing engine heat of the lack of it, was not alway de-clutching - at least that was what some of the dealer error codes suggested and also my ears. The reason I mention this is that there is an argument that says the engine computer will disallow an engine start if it thinks the engine cooling system will not work.

All your codes suggest a brake light circuit problem however you have installed a new switch and generally a switch problem does not inhibit engine starting - just maybe the air suspension or high speed vehicle operation.

Hence I bring up the matter of the engine cooling fan and if it sounds odd.

I haven't noticed any other fan noises. I don't think it is a fuse as it doesn't happen every time although this latest time it could be terminal. I'll find out tonight when I get hoem.

I am however suspecting battery as it could explain all the symptoms and especially intermittent faults that seem to be occurring more frequently. It was also cold last night and quite cold here this morning when the fault occurs which leads me to battery again...(not Canada cold though:eek:). It may be occurring more frequently in the code weather.

I'll check the battery voltages tonight as the car has been sitting all day.

Hi Ashes,
I had something similar, didn't involve the fan thankfully. I had a few flashing lights and the engine was a bit sluggish to turn over. I got a new battery and everything has been fine since. One thing to watch though, the book tells you I think 750 amp hours, which is what I duly got.
When at the local LR agent last week they told me that the battery should really be a 900 amp hr especially 2006 2007 models apparently. Who am I to argue.... he had nothing to gain by telling me I wasn't going to buy another one. Not yet anyway, also I'm in the process of installing a dual battery system. We're going to a bit of a tootle around next year I'll put a 900 amp hr in before I go.
Something to bare in mind when and iff ypou buy a new battery.

900 amp hours, that would be a big battery:D. Think you mean 900 CCA.
Car turned over tonight and started after resting during the day. Wouldn't start a 2nd time and very sluggish and all the faults came up. 99% certain it's a battery problem so will take it in LR to get the battery and charging system checked. Current battery has been in the car just over 2 years so would have expected a bit more from it. I have a dual battery so wondering if the 2nd battery has been helping it for a little while.
The battery in my digi multi meter is flat so couldn't measure it.