Seal off around the hole as explained in the before posted link. Caver D3 has photos posted in that link. I did it too before I put in an auxiliary tank.
Looks original & is water & dust proof.
2014 SDV6 HSE - LLAMS, Custom Drawer storage system https://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64
Gday Stuart02
My solution for this problem has been tried & tested & passed with flying colours.
Parts needed -
One 22mm socket with a 1/4 inch drive in the top.(can be made if none available)
One 225 mm 1/4 drive extension rod
One 1/4 inch drive ratchet (most of this came from Supercheap)
Method -
With the back seat/s up, open the rubber cover plug & place the 22mm socket on the spare wheel 22mm winch drive nut. (it will live there from now on)
Now, with a Stanley knife or similar, carefully put two cuts (X) in the center rubber cover plug. (about 25mm each cut to form a cross directly over the center of the socket. )
Replace the rubber plug back into original position.
Keep the ratchet & extension bar in a handy accessible place.
Lower the rear seats.
To Use-
Carefully slide the extension bar between the plastic covers of the rear seats (it just fits) onto the center of the cross cut into the rubber cover plug. Continue to push it through the plug until it 'engages' the socket under the plug.
You can then lower the spare with the ratchet.
When finished, simply remove the extension bar. The socket stays on the drive nut even if it lifts a little as it will 'top out" on the rubber cover.
I have used this system in my D3 for the last 6 years with no problems.
Because the rubber cover was cut with a 'cross', the drive can enter & retract with little pressure. I have never had any dust get past the cross cut in the rubber & the rubber seal has never lifted from its position.
Because all this happens a short distance from the Tailgate, you can perform the whole operation without removing any gear from the load area. Using the ratchet also makes it easier.
I have just converted my D4 & it works as before - all good.
I hope this is a simpler fix tor you.
My system is based on the pioneers who went before. You may take advantage of what I consider to be improvements.
I have a 3/8in drive 22mm socket engaged to the nut that lowers the spare wheel. To this I have fitted a 3/8 to 1/4 drive reducer. I have applied a little dab of silicon to these to make them stick and not disengage unless a deliberate force is applied. I made a snug round hole in the rubber cover that accommodates the 1/4 drive. (sorry about the blurry picture). I have used three little dabs of silicon (Edit: at the periphery where it seals with the flange/hole in the floor). This is to keep the rubber cover from coming off. The plastic covers on the third row seat hinge covers have been removed.
I have a 1/4 drive extension and a 1/4 ratchet driver. I store it with the jack and tools.
I have also cut a little flap in the floor mat to allow the spare wheel to be lowered without unloading the back of the wagon or disturbing the fridge etc.
No dust has entered despite trips on the Birdsville Track and a trip through William Creek and the Northern Flinders. I reckon it would be water-proof too, but Ive not been deep enough to test it
Cost was about $40, but it's worth much more in the effort it saved.
fred ....thanks for posting this refinement i am in the process of getting a similar set up .....(extension bar down through drawers and false floor ) ....but very hard if not impossible to find a 1/4 ' extension bar greater than 150 mm ....any ideas where in sydney such a thing could be found ......also is there any way a 3/8 extension bar would fit down in between the seats if the plastic cover s are removed or is the gap just too narrow ...i think there are longer extension bars in 3/8 and they are easier to find
Also does the 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor interfere with the seats setting back down ...it looks like in the photo it sits pretty flush with the top of the rubber cover .....is it really necessary to remove the two plastic bits ...looks like they are held by 1 or two screws so should not be a big job if i have to ............
cheers
thomas b
It was easy to find the extension bar at Sprint Auto parts and at Autobahn. There were cheap sets of extension bars of various lengths.
The hard-to-get bit for me, was the 3/8 to 1/4 reducer.
A 3/8 extension bar just wouldn't fit between the seats in my car. This may vary depending on the tolerences when the rear seats are fitted. You might be lucky.
The seats are well clear of the cover and the 1/4 drive socket and there is no issue with the normal function of these seats.
It is necessary to either remove the plastic hinge covers (two screws each) or there is an earlier post in this thread showing a groove cut across the plastic to accomodate the extension bar. I preferred removing the covers. I don't notice that they are gone. They can easily be replaced by the next owner if desired.
Last edited by Fred Nerk; 29th June 2012 at 07:47 PM. Reason: Added more answers
Paul
D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.
'56 S1,been in the family since...'56
Comes out of hibernation every few months for a run
Fred - and the ingenious gentlemen pioneers before you - you have now solved the 2nd of my three D4 bugbears. Brilliant in it's simplicity and elegant in it's execution, plus I can put it all back to (almost) original condition when need to sell it. (The Mitch Hitch solved bugbear #1 of the 'plough'; now how to get bigger fuel capacity without moving the spare wheel to the rear bumber bar to fit a long range tank... guess it is gonna be jerry cans on the roof)
Hi all, there is a 20% off all floor stock at SuperCheap Auto this Saturday (7/7/2012), which may help out with the cost of this.
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