Hi Fred,Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Nerk
Is your drive extension just 150mm, or longer?
Cheers
Stuart02
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Hi Fred,Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Nerk
Is your drive extension just 150mm, or longer?
Cheers
Stuart02
In the end Bunnings had all four components (3/8dr 22mm socket, 3/8M to 1/4F adapter, 150mm 1/4" extension and cheap 1/4" ratchet) for about $35.
I have come across a super short 22mm socket designed for removing motorbike axle nuts, I'll update on the fit-for-purpose when it arrives.
Sorry that I had not answered earlier, but I have not been checking the threads.
I am pretty sure that the 1/4 extension is 150mm in length and it is a comfortable fit as per the pictures. I'll check it next time I have time and correct this if its wrong.
Turns out my wheel winder is slightly off centre to the left. Don't know why, but I only had to take one plastic seat-hinge cover off to get the 1/4" extension through.
The super-short socket doesn't make much practical difference.
The 150mm-long extension comes up about 30mm above floor height, which is probably handy if you're thinking of a false floor.
Although I purchased most of the parts last month, I finally got around to completing this modification on Saturday as I was doing a trip on Sunday.
I got:
- Kincrome 3/8 drive 22mm socket (Part # K2847) (<$5)
- Kincrome 3/8 to 1/4 reducer (Part# K2933) (<$5)
- Sidchrome 1/4 150mm extension ($9)
- Supertool 1/4 ratchet driver ($7 - in comparison Sidchrome / Kincrome are around $15-$20 each)
Not all Bunnings have these in stock, and neither did my local Repco.
Installation notes:
- I found that I do need to remove the seat hinge covers
- Cutting an "X" in the rubber dust seal cover does not suffice - a snug hole is better
- I used "Shoo Goo" instead of silicone. It tends to be stickier and is also easily removed without a trace. It will also give way if you need to access the area. (I use it a lot in radio control car applications for both metal and plastic).
- I think the 150mm extension is fine and protrudes enough from the floor to make it easy to turn. If you get the 225mm extension you may have issues if you have a drawer system (sorry, can't comment from experience).
- At first I was concerned that the length of the 1/4 ratchet handle might be a little short (all brands seem to be around the same length) and make it hard work to wind, or too narrow in diameter to give it strength, but all is fine. Note that the picture in Fred's installation seems to be a 3/8 handle (decent length and girth) -> 1/4 adapter -> 1/4 extension -> 3/8 adapter -> 3/8 socket.
Thanks again Fred and others for the great write-up and pictures.
I experienced a flat tyre on my 2014 Discovery SDV6 SE before I appreciated the need for the modifications documented so well in this topic. Murphy arranged a remote Tasmanian gravel road, steep hill and hairpin bend, towing a camper trailer and with the Disco luggage area full with fridge and other gear for me to try lowering the spare wheel. I was just glad there was no traffic, rain or mud!
My first project on returning home was to ensure that experience is never repeated, so I am really grateful for the solution on this forum. My problem was that Land Rover, instead of addressing the problem by enabling the spare wheel to be lowered with an external system, changed the winder on the MY2015 model from a 22mm nut to a boss with a hole.
I had to modify a 3/4 socket to engage the boss and not come off, in order to use the 1/4" extension drive solution. The plastic hinge covers on the 3rd row seats still had to be removed. The snug holes in both the rubber dust cover over the winder and in the rubber cargo area mat are small improvements to the previous design, and by using a plastic valve cap to seal the hole in the mat I hope there will be no issues with dust or water ingress from above or below.
The photo collage illustrates the modified solution for the MY2015 Discovery. I hope other Disco3/4 owners make this modification before the long arm of Murphy's law taps you on the shoulder!
Neil
Sorry, I don't seem able to insert the actual photo.
Neil,
We were just replacing a tyre on the updated D4 during the last Range Rover Club Sand Driving course, and commenting on the new design and how it might mean the old method wasn't as viable. Well done on the solution. The picture looks fantastic and well explained. (There is a thread here on how to attach pictures inline).
Here are the photos to save others needing to click:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/04/795.jpg
Neil, this is an excellent solution. I have been using a standard 1" socket with only 6 sides. I have found that the flats of the socket are ok to turn the boss but it's a bit loose and I do wonder if the socket will come right off.
I had assumed that slotting and drilling a socket would be very difficult. Did you use a special drill bit? And how did you achieve such a neat slot?
Cheers,
Scott
Thanks for adding my photo, and pointing to the thread on adding photos. I will use that next time.
Thanks also for the encouraging feedback.
The 3/4 socket was a spare that did not have a brand, and I was lucky that it was not too hardened to cut. I found a hacksaw was best to cut the slot. I cut multiple cuts as close together as possible, broke out the remaining pieces and filed the base smooth. I was able to drill the side holes without any problem, ensuring they were as low as possible. The slot had to cut into the centre of the socket a few mm so the bolt would go through the hole in the winder.
All I can suggest is that if the socket is too hard to hacksaw or drill, try another brand. A slightly bigger size should also work. The slot was just wide enough to fit over the winder. I had considered using a cutting disk but was not confident of the accuracy I would achieve.
Regards
Neil