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I just have to take a drawer out and fit a 1/4' drive ratchet with short extension, works a treat!
I've decided to build my own as I did for our Prado some years ago and they lasted through all the bumps and lumps we travelled over. To overcome the prob. of accessing the winder until I get an RWC I shortened the bottom shelf by about 60mm and took the plastic covers off the 3rd row seats where they swivel. Then fashioned a cunning hook device from a coat hanger to pull the rubber cover off the winder hole.
Then cut about 5mm of the hook on the jack tool at the end of the bend, filed a small chamfer on it and made sure the hole in the winder was facing the back of the vehicle.
Now with the aid of a torch I can access the winder and use the jack handle to lower the wheel.
It ain't fancy but it it's cheap......
AlanH.
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20170611_111849.jpg
I just have to take a drawer out and fit a 1/4' drive ratchet with short extension, works a treat!
in the end pretty simple, removed drawers, got new 22mm socket in 3/8 (i think) from supercheap $1 each so grabbed two (one as a spare), had the extension and ratchet, no reducer needed which was a bonus, 3/8 fits between the gap of the seats with the black plastic seat side covers removed and a tight fit. clearance for my application is great as the drawers sit high enough for clearance. don't have to remove drawers to unwind or upwind. may think of something else to secure the extension rod in its place secured to underside of drawers for extra protection. now for a replacement jack...
I've got mobs of various size sockets but no way can I get one to actually fit and hold that post the jack hook goes into. Sometimes I say '"Bloody Land Rovers" then I buy another one....
AlanH
My MY16 D4 uses the jack handle through the top of the winch so there is no hex head to use. This is a fool of a development by Work Experience Kid at LR, and especially useless if you have drawers fitted as the handle is way too long to use.
So similar to Scott's Mk1 version, I just cut a tapered slot in a rusty old 3/4" socket with a hacksaw so the socket sits snugly over the winder lug. Then I put a 6mm bolt through the side of the socket, sleeving the hole in the winder lug that takes the jack handle with some retic hose and now I just use a 1/2" speed drive. The profile of the socket is low enough for the rubber cover to go on, so it is still dust proof. The size of the socket is not all that important or whether it is 1/2", 3/8" or even 1/4", just take care to make the tapered slot a nice firm fit and tighten the locking bolt.
Andrew
D4 MY16 SDV6 HSEe-diff, IID, LLAMS, ARB Summit bar & Intensities & twin compressor, Traxide, GOE sliders & guards,
TowPro Elite, Mitch Hitch, Rhino platform, Drifta drawers, GME UHF, ProSpeed rear ladder
Thnx. Andrew. I've been wondering how the hell anyone can get a socket to fit on the stupid bloody spigot thing and guessed it was just another design project for LR apprentices......
I've yet to have to use what I've done but I reckon it'll go OK.
AlanH.
Do you have pics Andrew?
Dave.
Hi.
96 Disco 1 V8.
99 Disco 2 TD5.
LROCV.
D4 MY16 SDV6 HSEe-diff, IID, LLAMS, ARB Summit bar & Intensities & twin compressor, Traxide, GOE sliders & guards,
TowPro Elite, Mitch Hitch, Rhino platform, Drifta drawers, GME UHF, ProSpeed rear ladder
Hi Guys,
Just an update and a renewal of thread for anyone searching.
I have just purchased a RAW jack from Trekoverland in the UK.
RAW Jack - Land Rover Discovery 3 & 4 Spare Wheel Removal Tool - RAWJK – Trek Overland Ltd
It has a 22mm socket already cut for the later D4's that dont have the nut. It was just a case of trimming the dust boot, putting the socket over the loop and giving it a light hammer with a plastic/rubber hammer replacing the boot and placing the rectangular mechanism over the socket with it fitting snugly against the rear wall of the cargo bay under the plastic trim of the tail door drop down panel.
Now the 22mm nut is right at the back in the opening between the seats and easily accessible with a normal 22mm socket on a short extension with a ratchet now kept in the car for the purpose. It still means you have to keep a vey small space available to wind down wheel but it is way easier than the existing arrangement and doesnt mean fiddling with the previously mention extension.
Cheers
John
I have been looking at this sort of modification given I have 265/65/18 tyres and the spare is a tight fit. But that would equate to AU$200. Bit expensive but I guess neater finish. Think I will follow the slotted 22mm Socket with a locating bolt drilled through and extension rod. That should only cost $10 from a Sunday market stall.
2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap
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