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Thread: Spare wheel winder access via socket extension

  1. #1
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    Spare wheel winder access via socket extension

    I promise I've searched hard to find the answer to this, but can some one please tell me if they've done the 'hole in the floor with a socket extension attached to the winder' operation, without removing the third row seats and putting in a false floor?

    It seems to me you'd have to at least remove the plastic cowlings off the seat hinges. And then removing or puncturing that rubber bung would potentially let in a fair bit of dust?

    If someone could engineer a traditional access via the rear bumper option, or a motorised remotely operated option, it'd be worth several hundred bucks to owners to fit, rather than having to go the rear wheel carrier option.

    All I want to do is be able to put a fridge on a slide in the back of the car!!!

    Many thanks

  2. #2
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    Check out this thread, particularly the end of it with quite a few pictures:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ml#post1271066

    I tried doing a search through the forum as well, but it was too hard (not enough "advanced" options to ensure all the words were there).

    P.S. You can get Google to do the hard work and restricting it to a specific domain/site by prefacing your search with site:<domain name>
    eg site:www.aulro.com spare wheel socket extension between seat

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
    Check out this thread, particularly the end of it with quite a few pictures:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ml#post1271066

    I tried doing a search through the forum as well, but it was too hard (not enough "advanced" options to ensure all the words were there).

    P.S. You can get Google to do the hard work and restricting it to a specific domain/site by prefacing your search with site:<domain name>
    eg site:www.aulro.com spare wheel socket extension between seat
    Ah thanks so much Eddomak - at the administrators' discretion I'll leave the thread up, perhaps it'll help others find what they're looking for too.

  4. #4
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    The only thing I have found with this arrangement is the dust that comes up through the opening. Using the existing rubber blanking plug try punching / cutting a hole just less then the diameter of the extension shaft and to make it easier to get the head of the extension through put a couple of cross cuts in the rubber. My version of this is based on a old cross wheel brace where I cut of the cross piece off and the opposite end of the socket leaving about 30mm sticking above the deck. I drilled a 6mm hole through the shaft and put a removable tommy bar through it when I need to drop the spare.

  5. #5
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    I am glad it is not just me that has a problem with the search function on this site, I can never find anything !
    Will try the google tip next time thanks.

    DD

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart02 View Post
    I promise I've searched hard to find the answer to this, but can some one please tell me if they've done the 'hole in the floor with a socket extension attached to the winder' operation, without removing the third row seats and putting in a false floor?

    It seems to me you'd have to at least remove the plastic cowlings off the seat hinges. And then removing or puncturing that rubber bung would potentially let in a fair bit of dust?

    If someone could engineer a traditional access via the rear bumper option, or a motorised remotely operated option, it'd be worth several hundred bucks to owners to fit, rather than having to go the rear wheel carrier option.

    All I want to do is be able to put a fridge on a slide in the back of the car!!!

    Many thanks
    Hi Stuart02, I use a:

    Kincrome 250mm Wobble Extension Bar
    Chrome vanadium steel hardened tempered chrome plated and polished for corrosion protection Enables sockets to be driven at up to 15 degrees to the vertical. Spring loaded ball bearing holds socket securely.

    This allows me to leave one seat down (with the fridge and slide on top) while I lift up the other seat, take off the rubber cover and slip the socket with the Wobble extension onto the winder and then use a standard 1/2 inch ratchet to wind the spare up or down.

    best of luck, john

  7. #7
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    I have found the factory rubber cover very effective at keeping the dust out having forgotten to put it on once. I actually now use a piece of wire coiled into a circle under the factory cap that has one end extending up between the seats I can then pull this wire and slide the cover aside to get to the socket with the 1/4 inch drive. It is not easy to get the rubber on but I figure if i needed the spare I probably have bigger worries than a little dust or water ingress.

  8. #8
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    As PaulGoz said use a 1/4'" extension bar adapted to a 22mm socket. The bar will just slide forward between the seats. I have put a cable tie through the tag on the dust cap in a loop and lined up with the gap so as to remove it. The dust cap is definitely needed, as I found out after leaving off. Ivan

  9. #9
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    Hi John,
    Just to digress my own thread:- fridge slide attached to the back of the 3rd row seat, or a false floor? Thanks!

    [/B][/B]
    Quote Originally Posted by johneyles View Post
    Hi Stuart02, I use a:

    Kincrome 250mm Wobble Extension Bar
    Chrome vanadium steel hardened tempered chrome plated and polished for corrosion protection Enables sockets to be driven at up to 15 degrees to the vertical. Spring loaded ball bearing holds socket securely.

    This allows me to leave one seat down (with the fridge and slide on top) while I lift up the other seat, take off the rubber cover and slip the socket with the Wobble extension onto the winder and then use a standard 1/2 inch ratchet to wind the spare up or down.

    best of luck, john

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by IvanR View Post
    As PaulGoz said use a 1/4'" extension bar adapted to a 22mm socket. The bar will just slide forward between the seats. I have put a cable tie through the tag on the dust cap in a loop and lined up with the gap so as to remove it. The dust cap is definitely needed, as I found out after leaving off. Ivan
    And I'm guessing worst-case scenario on a water crossing, water could get in too?

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