Hi Rufusking,
Nice.....................
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Hi Rufusking,
Nice.....................
Hi Irondoc,
I've always noted how much the nut head rotates after being finger tight against the wheel to when the nut is done up to the correct torque as a sort of double check when off road or somewhere where I don't have the trusty torque wrench.
If you are worried about it just carry a torque wrench in your tool kit they don't take up that much room. Always take one when I go on extended trips, takes a bit of the stress out of changing a wheel.
over tight nuts will stretch the threads and if you mess about often enough you will stuff up the studs.
Always take a tourque wrench when going away or offroad.
Additionally you should lubricate the threads with anti seize or at the least crc when changing to keep the threads clean.
most importantly is try not to put wheel nuts on when hot or the threads still hot as this is the easiest way to stretch the thread or strip the stud entirely.
Right on all points there, Scary. I haven't put a torque wrench in the car yet, but when I got my old Rangie it came with most of the tools and the original handbooks. I hadn't had alloys on a Landie before, and I read that the handbook says that the foldable wheel spanner is made that way so that with the arm extended, you should have enough leverage to get the nut loose, but it's cleverly designed so that the handle folds over when you use it to tighten them. I checked with a torque wrench and indeed this factory spanner does give about the right torque when used with a bit of effort. Folded, the handle is 10" long.
If you think about it, when was the last time you had to stand on the end of a torque wrench to achieve a particular setting?
Be Very careful with D3/4 wheel nuts.I know someone who used the ft/lb scale on the torque wrench instead of the nm scale,effectively tightening the nuts to 140ft/lbs.The studs were OK but one of the nuts stretched.
Something had to let go,easier to replace a nut than a stud.