Thanks CAVER We will look into that first. If not we are going to put some Chemiweld in to confirm the head/head gasket. After that well maybe a crated engine as suggested above.
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Thanks CAVER We will look into that first. If not we are going to put some Chemiweld in to confirm the head/head gasket. After that well maybe a crated engine as suggested above.
Thanks Caver. I wasn’t overly impressed with the Land Rover Mechanic that made the blown gasket diagnosis without exploring or suggesting other possibilities such as has been mentioned here so I have taken my car to another mechanic for a second opinion and he agrees with the EGR Coolant possibility.
Terry, do you have any contacts for the crate long engine you suggested? Land Rover here gave me a minimum price of $10, 500 to replace head gaskets and around the same for a short motor unfitted. They claim Land Rover Australia no longer does a long motor but haven’t ruled out other sources.Quote:
Originally Posted by TerryO
First off they are quoting you retail prices for the short engine.
My new long engine was bought through a normal workshop who also did work on LR's as well as other brands. I'd ring around a couple of differnet LR workshops to see if what they are saying is correct. Sounds kinda strange to me that they would stop selling long engines.
When the workshop I went to ordered one for me LR supposedly had 6 in stock so they obviously are selling them if they have none now. Why stop importing something that is selling well?
Also I don't remember hearing that there were any differences between the 2.7 LR use and the one Ford is now using, so it might be an idea to find out what Ford now sell their 2.7's for if you have no luck with LR.
If you like give me a call on 0419448452 if you want to discuss this.
cheers,
Terry
Thanks Terry. The other mechanic is looking at it tomorrow for me. I'm really hoping he finds something a little simpler..If not you can expect to here from me :)..I'm also interested in what talltales comes up with.
Cheers
Steve
It appears that I'm likely up for a new motor as it will be more cost effective than repairing as pointed out by Terry. Initially my mechanic was told that a new long motor was available but it turns out that what is on offer are only used motors with around 30 - 50 k on them.
However there may be the slightest glimmer of hope for my predicament. Another vehicle has turned up at my mechanics shop with very similar symptoms to mine. It too had the thermostat housing recently replaced by the initial Land Rover dealer that replaced mine. Now it too is bubbling at the reservoir and beginning to overheat (to my understanding it hasn't overheated) and it appears there is an air lock in the cooling system somewhere that hasn't been resolved i.e cooling system is not circulating.
Has anybody come across an air lock in the cooling system? and if so is there a procedure necessary to prevent or fix it?
Cheers
Steve
Two after the same work done by the same dealer. I think there may be a pattern. Have you taken it back to the dealer who did the work and asked them to rectify?
Not as yet..the second vehicle wasn't brought to my attention until late yesterday afternoon and at this stage I have no proof of any faulty workmanship..only suspicions based on previous experience and a small glimmer of hope that I'm not up for another motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by CaverD3
I currently have the vehicle with another mechanic that I have greater confidence in and would prefer to leave it with him. If the outcome proves that my current problem is a result of faulty workmanship then I will endeavor to take the issue up with them then. The symptoms of the two vehicles may after all only be a coincidence.
Cheers
Steve
Steve,
Sorry I didn't keep your number, if you give me another call I may know where a complete engine is at the right price that should be able to provide all the major donor parts you need.
cheers,
Terry
Looks like mine is a cracked head or blown head gasket. Put in some Chemi Weld and took it for a 400km run and coolant loss was nil. I think I sourced an engine, new without injectors or turbo but complete with heads and belts brand new for $8100 plus freight. I am waiting on another quote at the moment and will then decide when and how to do the change. My mechanic says it will probably mean removing the body for easier access. Apparently under 20 bolts plus remove front and rear after market bars then unplug and lift up. Will keep you posted.