$3500 for a pair of spotties What The ?????

Never had much luck with driving lights, corrugations usually win in the end with lights pointing all over the place or on the road somewhere behind. One one memorable occasion the LH spotty was driven past the bull bar and through the grille of the RRC by a large kangaroos head and its remains (spotty) were resting against the air con condenser.
I've found it's better value to have quality relay fed H4 headlamps protected in the guards and as Pat points out, you've got to dip driving lights with oncoming traffic so IMO good Lo/Hi headlamps are a better choice..
Mostly I avoid night driving like the plague, it's a mugs game. All sorts of animals about at night time, including two legged ones. Much better to be sitting around a campfire with a glass of Port. :)

Deano :)

Pat, first bit of sense I've heard for a long time... :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PAT303

If you have to have the biggest and best so you can be a hero at BBQ's,in other words a tosser,buy big lights,if you travel alot at night you'll find long ranged lights a PITA as you have to turn them off too early because of oncoming traffic.From personal experience doing alot of night driving I want a wide beam that cuts into the bush 40 feet either side of the road and about 500 feet forward,I want braking room/reaction time nothing else. Pat

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I used to do a lot of night driving and I had two sets of driving lights on my RRC. A pair of Hella search lights (of the type much loved by Brian) converted to HID and a set of Hella Rallye 4000 spread beams also converted to HID.

If I could see the glow of oncoming vehicle lights I would switch off the spot lights first. Then as the oncoming glow got brighter I would switch off the spread beam lights. When I could tell the vehicle was close to line of sight I would dip back to low beam.

I for one think there is no such thing as too much light going both down the road and spreading to the sides.

Spotties are a PITA in the Kimberley. The roads are generally flat and straight and the on coming traffic makes it all a great nuisance. Therefore I only drive at night in emergencies and at 80kph. Hitting one of the BFO Brahmans that frequent The Derby Hwy could be rather painfull and besides it would cost me a carton in penalties to the social club. The only real answer to the conundrum of night driving is do it only if you have to.

Cheers
Rob

I too have a strong preference is to drive during day light hours.

How ever circumstances dictated early night travel recently coming west across the Nullabour.

"Spot light blindness" is signifcant having to travel on low beam for far longer than necessary. Approaching drivers often have to travel at low beam for bloody kms because neither driver can judge the distance between when one vehicle has spots operating.

I don't think there are too many drivers like BigJon who progressively dip their lights - thanks BigJon

As an addition to my comments, I also never "outdrive" my low beam headlights. If I feel that I can't see well enough on low beam I slow down. It isn't that hard to do and in the grander scheme of things doesn't add a lot to a trip time.

Brian...

Whats happening mate? Why wont you reply?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

I use 12v 150 watt QH bulbs but there is nothing stopping you fitting an HID conversion if you have a low output alternator.

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Again...

Please advise the part number for the QH 12v 150w bulbs you claim to be using...

I ask this because - No known manufacturer makes them in H3 (which is what the spots you talk about take)...

I've always been impressed by your knowledge Brian, but this time were you 'caught out' ? Or just not interested in adding information to a thread that I believe has become quite informative...

Sincerely

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Again...

Please advise the part number for the QH 12v 150w bulbs you claim to be using...

Sincerely

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Don't know what Brian uses,
but Osram make a 12v 150w for FYRLYT, part # 16000

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roamer

Don't know what Brian uses,
but Osram make a 12v 150w for FYRLYT, part # 16000

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Roamer, I know that one thanks mate.

But no-one makes a H3 in 12v 150watt...

Osram makes the Xenophot #16000 for Fyrlyt exclusively...

I'm more interested in Brians comment, and his refusal to answer a general question, or discuss the specifics of the "If you know your physics" comment ;)

Seems he may have told a little "porkie" and feels a little shy :angel:

cheers