Llams or Rods, which one and why?

oldsalt And just to confuse you even more Doc ... there's this option as well ... check 'em out. IIDTool for Land Rover - GAP Diagnostic - quite a few people on Disco3.UK have them and seem satisfied.
I went for the rods by the way, quick and easy, works for me.
cheers
I did see the IIDTool Oldsalt the only reason I didn't put them on the list is that it seems most Aussies haven't got them but I do like the fact that it reads system errors as well

Gords I also like the fact that there is no connection to the icu to cause problems

Chuck I also love the fact you can change on the fly

Graeme good point returning to standard wouldn't cost much

Adzee if I was to use the rods I would change before I headed out and change back when I returned but agreed that my thoughts are it would get a bit tedious after a while

Ashes I'm out of warranty so it doesn't come into play and part of the buildup is not money related but to do it right first go whatever the cost, I had too many regrets with my last buildup (patrol) so I want to ensure I get it right first time

I have to admit that I'm leaning towards the Llams system simply due to flexibility, convenience and ease of use, but my concern is reliability based on it being electrical as I plan on doing some extensive tours

Cheers
Julian

Llams all the way...

Road height to the tracks, std offroad mode usually until it gets "fast" then I switch Llams to raised so I can do 50km/h+

Back onto fast dirt and back to normal height

Back into the next tough bit and raise again...


Rods are fine if you go into hard stuff and dont come out IMO, but the convenience of returning to normal in places like Gammon, Flinders, Googs etc easily sway me to Llams...

Llams for me too, easy to use and you don't have to get out of the car, plus customer service is outstanding as well.

Baz.

I have Llams. One of things about the D4 is that many of the terrain response settings cause a lift to off road height.

I find that it is better to mostly leave the Llams on normal height and let the car do its thing. Otherwise you end up with too much lift when they are both activated without you realising it. When you need the extra lift due to speed or an obstacle you can then switch it and check the lift setting on the car at the same time.

With the rods, you will need to change the height setting switch with more care if you have the rods in so that you don't get too much lift when all you want is off road height for 90% of the trip. Not a problem for most people but I am forever not realising that the a change in the TR has caused a lift when I wasn't expecting it and finding I am higher than I expected, unless I leave the Llams off for most of the time.

The other good thing about Llams is that you can lower the car much further than access height, especially in the D4 where you can use a lower setting in Llams. This is good for getting old people into the car and we use it all the time to help my 93 year old mother in law get into the car.

Bob

In my mind, the main advantage of the LLAMS system is it's flexibility. It can vary both maximum and minimum heights. The main advantage of the rods system is that it is the simplest possible solution.

There are (IMO) other more minor advantages/disadvantages of each, which take on greater relevance for some than others. One thing I would caution against though, is continual playing with height settings - the compressor is not designed to cope with multiple height changes, and has a tendency to jump into thermal protection mode quite regularly. With the fitting instructions I provide with the rods, I outline a usage pattern that should be stuck to, to avoid such behaviour.

Cheers,

Gordon

LLams
Had mine in for over 12 months and never had any errors, used numerous times on Fraser, Moreton, Bribie and Scenic Rim out of Brissy.

I've had an IIDTool for some time and find it quite neat.

Sure, it isn't as absolutely bog simple as LLAMS for raising and lowering (you need to turn the vehicle ignition off and then on again to make height changes with IIDTool), but it also lets you check and clear faults, tweak a lot of settings, and many other things.

It also doesn' require any installation as such - just plug it into the OBD port under the steering column, and when done, throw it back into the glovebox etc.

Thanks for your comments gedaso ... how about a few more details ? I'm sure quite a few members on here would like to know more about it and it's capabilities....how much you paid for it.... etc etc
cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gghaggis

In my mind, the main advantage of the LLAMS system is it's flexibility. It can vary both maximum and minimum heights. The main advantage of the rods system is that it is the simplest possible solution.

There are (IMO) other more minor advantages/disadvantages of each, which take on greater relevance for some than others. One thing I would caution against though, is continual playing with height settings - the compressor is not designed to cope with multiple height changes, and has a tendency to jump into thermal protection mode quite regularly. With the fitting instructions I provide with the rods, I outline a usage pattern that should be stuck to, to avoid such behaviour.

Cheers,

Gordon

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Yes, when I use Llams, I make sure it is only used in conjunction with the offroad system, this minimises compressor useage, so basically the Llams is set once, usually the first setting, and then only used again at days end, the second setting is only used if I feel I might need the extra height for large rocky sections or very deep ruts.

Baz.

My current basic daily routine starts at medium, high for 2 km of my rutted driveway at up to 70 kph then very slowly over the large, jagged rock drains the council has put across the road in several places, off for 10 km of smooth gravel and bitumen, high again prior to slowing from 100 kph for the rocks again, then medium to park all in 20 minutes. I only select off-road height in conjunction with high to gain maximum height when driving over stubble and tall or scratchy weeds (off-road height rather than recovery mode to get the speed warning at 40 kph) and use access height or lower several times on shoppng day.

I'll refurbish the dryer when 'slow to rise' occurs (I must get some spare dessicant) and hope not to replace the compressor too often, but I want to use the height appropriate for the conditions. The prime reason I upgraded from my problem-free D2a was to get variable height suspension. I started developing what later became the Llams height controller well before my D4 arrived because I was going to make good use of it if I succeeded.