New to Landrover - Advice please!

The thing to keep in mind is that a diesel engine may last 300-400 thousand k's, but the ball joints, tie-rods, boots, seals, and other moving parts, odds and ends are the same as the petrol model and start wearing out at the same time. These are the things that the mechanic hits you up for when you get it serviced once it's over 150,000kms. Same as any other vehicle.

You still need the timing belt kit changed on the diesel once it hits 168,000k's and that requires lifting the whole body off the chassis. It can be done without that but there isn't much room.

You don't need to lift the body off to change the timing belts !!!

Mate in the UK (LR independant) has done loads of them, never lifted the body off. The rear belt is a nasty job, but doable.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by garrycol

There have been a couple of failures of 4.0 petrols listed on this forum.

Diesel is the way to go - drove from Canberra to Newcastle this week in my 2.7 TDV6 - drove at 110 kph and the computer showed 6.9l/100km (40mpg) - realistically 7.9l/100km (35mpg) - try that in your petrol gas guzzler.

Driving back in much hotter weather and a head wind and still managed 7.2l/100km (indicated).

Garry

---

Impressive numbers if your on board computer is giving anywhere near the correct information Gerry, in fact not far off what a less than half the weight and size diesel VW Golf is supposed to get in economy.

My similar powered diesel D3 doesn't get anywhere near those kind of economy figures when I work out litres of fuel used compared to actual mileage done rather than relying on what my on board computer says.

Regarding the true running costs and value of any vehiccle one must include depreciation, ongoing running costs (fuel etc) and maintenance and service costs before one knows the true ongoing ownership cost of any vehicle over an average ownership period.

This is usually quite different if the vehicle is purchased new or secondhand.

Just because a petrol powered vehicle costs more in fuel doesn't mean it will cost more to own than a diesel powered version.

If one just bases the cost of ownership on fuel economy alone then one is more often than not is just kidding themselves.

Cheers,
Terry

The error in the onboard computer is well known for D3s etc - typically it under reads by about 10% - hence my comment 6.9 on the computer and realistically 7.9 - still pretty good in any language.

If you had a Sport rather than a Fridge on wheels you might see better fuel consumption :) - and get a V8 and you will never see it :o

Garry

Ps - Actual to Newcastle and back including about 60km around town in Newcastle - 900km (one tank) return trip and used 78l (indicated was 7.2l/100) and actual on filling worked out to be 8.6l/100km (32.5mpg) - not bad for 2.5t at 110kph or around town. Highlights the errors in the trip computer but also the economy of the 2.7.

Went through the same deal when I purchased my D3 in 2007. Diesel $11K more than the equivalent Petrol model. I had the fleet manager where I was working run 3 year projections on both and his advice was go the diesel as while purchase price was higher, depreciation was significantly less too. Add to that high mileage we do, and if we're not towing a 2 tonne boat we're towing a 19 fooy caravan.

Yep, I could buy a lot of fuel for $11K, but there is also a difference in capital vs operating costs. Once the purchase cash is handed over (or loan papers signed) it all pretty much becomes part of every day life...but each stop at the bowser is generally gunna sting more with the Petrol.

We never got to find out if the numbers worked - when the car was approx 18 months old with 50,000km on the clock my son put it into a stand of gum trees at 110kmh (fell asleep with cruise control on). Insurance company was livid as only two others were on the market back then and so the payout was only $3,500 less than what we bought it for :D

And our current vehicle? A D4 TDV6 3.0. Sweet as!!!

Ultimately they are both good cars, but with kids you gotta have leather. No matter what they spill, a damp cloth and its as good as new.

Cheers,
Scott

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ghoti

Yep, I could buy a lot of fuel for $11K, but there is also a difference in capital vs operating costs. Once the purchase cash is handed over (or loan papers signed) it all pretty much becomes part of every day life...but each stop at the bowser is generally gunna sting more with the Petrol.

---

Most people borrow money to buy a vehicle, which means you are paying 30 to 50% more on top of the $11k over 5 years. Weekly fuel doesnt cost you interest.

I'm with Ashes on this. I would love a TDV6 but can't afford it. Given my circumstances, the Petrol V6 is my (2nd) choice. Ashes said you need to use the diesel at 25K a yr. for 7 years to get back your money. Can't argue with that either. One thing that needs to be taken into account is replacement of the drive belt (TDV6) at 120000 ks and I'm told it costs about $1500. Aside from that, everyone I know (especially me) loves the ride quality on my Petrol version.

So I took a couple of petrols and diesel D3s for a drive at the weekend and couldn't tell the difference. It's going to come down to price though and the petrol version stacks up on the initial purchase, plus as we're not doing lots of long journey's, off-roading, or regulary towing large boats, the fuel cost doesn't match the extra cost of the diesel.

Slight spanner in the works though, the Mrs hates the interior....apparently it looks too old! So we're going to take a look at some other (newer) non-European 7 seaters this weekend, and hopefully get back to buying a D3 on Monday :) She's also got her heart set on a Volvo XC90, so may have to buy 2 cars!

If she doesn't like the D3 interior maybe she should have a look at a D4, before looking at the other cars you are talking about.

Bob

Nothing coming up for D4 on carsales within my budget across the whole of australia regardless of KMs or pertrol/deisel :(