Alternator - Not charging

Thank you very much bbyer for posting those links. Very interesting and informative!
I not only need a walking stick to get around, looks like I may need one to keep up with modern developments! :(

However, I still stick to my original post concerning the "load dump". I very much doubt that that the reasons Graeme has posted concerning the battery are likely to occur and be the cause of damage. Transient spikes on the system are much more likely to be generated from the switching of loads other than the battery, and such switching on and off is a normal part of the vehicles operation.

I just have to wonder where some of this modern technology leads to. In another post there were some comments comparing house wiring electricians to automotive electricians. The processes involved with some of this equipment is far from the domain and training of any "electrician", automotive or otherwise. The most common affect of this is the "throwaway" response to equipment failures, and its associated costs. cheers.

I've been informed that the 2.7 TDV6 in the Ford Territory uses a LR spec alternator due to Ford wanting to keep development costs as low as possible so didn't consider specifying a different alternator. Whether its the 2.7 alternator or the 3.0 alternator is yet to be ascertained, but regardless the alternator B+ cable has a mega-fuse fitted to it. The alternator's rated output and the mega-fuse rating will be ascertained in a few weeks, although I suspect the information could be found on the net or from a Ford dealer.

I've also had confirmed that vehicle manufacturers don't tell alternator manufacturers how to build alternators (although some try), only what specification and tests the alternators have to pass including load dump testing. An example was a specification for load dump testing that required the alternator to be spinning at 18,000 rpm (approx 6,000 engine rpm), specific battery temperature preparation in a laboratory (presumably attempting to simulate an engine environment) etc then the battery disconnected for 10 seconds at a time for a set number of instances.

Tested at 6,000 engine rpm and all I would like is for the alternator to last in a real engine compartment - asking too much I guess.

Finding a similar alternator in a Ford vehicle at I presume Ford pricing is real progress. I expect however that the PWM regulator will somehow speak a different language and we will be beat again or the plug shape and pin out, different. This is easy to do as the plug bits are effectively regulator plastic rather than alternator metal. I can only presume this is all done to protect us.

The mega-fuse numbers should be applicable however.

Now that I think of it, pulling the battery out while the engine is running is not exactly unheard of. In this country when it is cold and you are in the bush and you know you have a starting problem but you do not know what it is, yes, you will swap out batteries while the engine, heater, headlights etc are all operational.

The headlights are so to reflect back some light into the engine compartment so you can see what you are doing as it is noon and still dark; the heater, well the -40C feels a bit colder than usual as the engine fan is operational but it is cold air not hot that is blowing at you - giving a wind chill of maybe -60C. Usually in those circumstances we do not worry much about load dumping and voltage spikes - the bears and getting back to the bar are a bigger concern.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bbyer

I have a petrol 4.4L V8 LR3 and just noticed after reading your post that yes, the thick cable off the alternator runs first to the starter motor and then up to the battery.

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Sorry for digging up this old thread. I’ve got a 4.4 v8 petrol and this isn’t the case in mine, nor is it shown on the wiring diagram.

I'm chasing an alternator issue in my car at the moment, and I’m wondering if there is other significant differences between the V8 engines that might be useful to know. Attachment 156721