Thread: D3 TDV6 overheating on sand?

thats because its a normalised gauge......

if the engine is within the acceptable operating range then the needle points to the middle, once it goes up then you're still not in trouble its still got some ways to go before its dangerous once its in the red your doing damage, fortunately for d3+ the engine derates and shuts down before it gets critical.

The main reasons that normalised gauges with massive swings once the normal operating range then the safe operating ranges are exceeded are because of nufty dipwitted incompetent drivers that wouldnt watch the gauges and wouldnt notice a slow climb of an over heated engine and also because of idiotic drivers who dont read manuals and dont comprehend that an engine has an ideal operating temperature and an acceptable operating range. Yes the engine is going to run up near 105 degrees C (and higher) if youve got a trailer on the back and your hauling it over stocktons and your in high range and you have high tyre pressures its not over heating, its just working harder, you know in the same way that you feel hotter and sweat more If I make you do a run carrying a 30KG pack up a sand dune in summer compared to taking a leisurely stroll on a fine autumn evening along a nice boulevard watching the sunset.

Theres a lot of people who I like to call "you idiot" I'm slowly becoming convinced that people who buy expensive electronic diagnostic tools just to use them as a temperature gauge because the factory normalised gauge "doesnt work" deserve their own special place, much like the special place in hell for child molesters and people who turn their phone to vibrate but still answer it then have loud conversations on it in the movies.

I get thie sinking feeling that in the very near future there will be a spiel on this very topic in the book.

Originally Posted by scarry

Also if you do a lot of slow tottering around,such as on the farm,even in cool weather the fan will roar every now & then,but the temp. guage does not move.
Would that be the viscous coupling cycling or the electric override?

That would be the electric override.

Cheers,

Gordon

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

thats because its a normalised gauge......

if the engine is within the acceptable operating range then the needle points to the middle, once it goes up then you're still not in trouble its still got some ways to go before its dangerous once its in the red your doing damage, fortunately for d3+ the engine derates and shuts down before it gets critical.

The main reasons that normalised gauges with massive swings once the normal operating range then the safe operating ranges are exceeded are because of nufty dipwitted incompetent drivers that wouldnt watch the gauges and wouldnt notice a slow climb of an over heated engine and also because of idiotic drivers who dont read manuals and dont comprehend that an engine has an ideal operating temperature and an acceptable operating range. Yes the engine is going to run up near 105 degrees C (and higher) if youve got a trailer on the back and your hauling it over stocktons and your in high range and you have high tyre pressures its not over heating, its just working harder, you know in the same way that you feel hotter and sweat more If I make you do a run carrying a 30KG pack up a sand dune in summer compared to taking a leisurely stroll on a fine autumn evening along a nice boulevard watching the sunset.

Theres a lot of people who I like to call "you idiot" I'm slowly becoming convinced that people who buy expensive electronic diagnostic tools just to use them as a temperature gauge because the factory normalised gauge "doesnt work" deserve their own special place, much like the special place in hell for child molesters and people who turn their phone to vibrate but still answer it then have loud conversations on it in the movies.

I get thie sinking feeling that in the very near future there will be a spiel on this very topic in the book.

Slow down Dave, I know it is a normalised gauge but I still don't like it. I like to know the actual temperature and I do use my Scan guage for that. However the main reason I bought it was to keep track of and read fault codes, keep track of fuel usage and all the other data it gives up. It was originally for my D2 which I found it very useful for, it was just an added bonus that it worked on the D3.
It is only because I've got a scanguage that I know the fan cuts in at approx. 100c. In future if I see the temp higher than that and don't hear the fan roar I will know there is a problem with the fan rather than wait for the normalised gauge to eventually tell me there is a problem.

Some threads are quite interesting to read, then they deteriorate, then they are no longer that pleasant to read. This one is heading that way.......

Cheers
Lucas

It is my understanding that during prolonged sand driving the torque converter for the gearbox can become extremely hot.

This causes the transmission fluid, which cooled by an oil cooler next to the radiator to become extremely hot, you also have added strain on the engine, and slow speeds.

You may have a problem with your fan as well, but most people who go driving on sand buy aftermarket and enlarged oil coolers to deal with the extra heat produced by the torque converter.

You can help the strain on the engine as well, by adjusting your tyre/tire pressures accordingly. 18PSI for sand is usually what people use.

Hope this helps.

-Tech23

Originally Posted by LRTech23

It is my understanding that during prolonged sand driving the torque converter for the gearbox can become extremely hot.

This causes the transmission fluid, which cooled by an oil cooler next to the radiator to become extremely hot, you also have added strain on the engine, and slow speeds.

You may have a problem with your fan as well, but most people who go driving on sand buy aftermarket and enlarged oil coolers to deal with the extra heat produced by the torque converter.

-Tech23

I think you're a little off the mark there. I've driven or convoyed quite a few D3's, D4's, FL2's and RRS's through quite considerable distances in sand, including towing camper-trailers. As a rule, they do NOT overheat - if they do, something's wrong. You don't need an after-market cooler.

Cheers,

Gordon

Thanks Gordon you have answered a question I previously asked on here and several places without a satisfactory answer.
When I bought the 80series everyone said I had to fit an extra trans. cooler, due to what we did with it, eventually talking to Norm from Trac4 and his comment was " What the hell for ? " he had only ever had one warning buzzer for the trans go off (Stockton) in all his time, I never heard mine go off or had any trouble in 300K. most with 3000kgs on the rear !

DD

Originally Posted by irondoc

Some threads are quite interesting to read, then they deteriorate, then they are no longer that pleasant to read. This one is heading that way.......

Cheers
Lucas

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