OK, so a bit more reading reveals that there are two procedures, the traditional method and the vacuum method. I have attached both procedures in full:
Brett, you were right although you can still do it the traditional way.
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
The drain plug is low in the right side, accessed by removing the sump guard.
Edit: Thanks SBD4 for the pdf links because I now know how to read the oil level at any time, not just when temperature and time since running conditions are satisfied.
Edit2: It doesn't work on mine!
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
So can the plug be reused or a new one has to be supplied? Surely if it's made from steel its ok to reuse......
If I go ahead with the oil change in the next couple of weeks, I'll let yhou know the conditiona and outcome of the oil at 10,000k's on the 3.0L
Cheers
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
I re-used the drain plug because there was plenty of spring left in the O-ring and it doesn't have to hold much pressure. I should have measured the O-ring so I could get and fit a new one next time.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Seriously guys, have you ever opened the bonnet - and looked at the filler cap?
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