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Looks good. I did similar, but customised a 12N plug (I think it was just knock out the centre pin) because couldnt easily find a 12S in Perth. I used this wiring diagram. Electronics 2000 | Pin-outs | 12N / 12S Connectors
Seems to work very nicely with a small 7W foldup panel - I use for keeping my 2-batt setup topped up when the D4 doesnt get a run for a few weeks (has so far avoided all low-batt warnings which I used to get occasionally).
Where did you find the sealed connectors? Been looking for them at a reasonable price forever.
The sealed connectors I got from AutoStar off eBay; be aware that there are different colours for different diameter cables, so make sure you get the correct one.
A bit more fiddly to put together properly (just converted the other portion of the Ctek extension cable), and am waiting for some sun (it's been coming down the whole day in Sydney) to test the solar panel (100W) before I cut that cable.
Hi folks and you don’t need a sealed type connector as water does not conduct, not even salt water and/or mud.
To conduct, water has to have some sort of conducting contaminate mixed with it before you can get a bridge between terminals.
Now to a suggestion to simplify both the battery charger and solar panel connection.
Try Anderson 30 amp Power Poles and below are some examples of what can be done with these great little connectors.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/02/680.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/01/346.jpg
Drivesafe,
Thanks for the heads-up; the reason I went for the sealed connection was more the chance of mud etc getting into the connectors, and preventing proper contact, rather than water conduction at 12-16V.
I also don't yet have a trailer, but I put the plug in in anticipation of one, but I am already finding having the plug there very useful, I have put an Anderson plug on my ARB compressor and instead of popping the hood and putting alligator clips on the battery I just plug into the rear Anderson plug, can also use it for attaching solar panels to charge up in camp. I also attached an Anderson plug to the pair of alligator clips I took off the compressor and can now use it for all kinds of things such as an inverter. Am also going to put a plug onto a work/camp light for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Same here for the sealed connectors. Most of the ones I've found have very small (1-1.5mm) pins and just as small apertures for wires. Are they available larger for stuff like driving lights etc where the connector is exposed and also where you don't need a $500- crimper.
Hiya drivesafe - I'm just wondering whether I should just wire up a 12s > anderson adaptor to charge my camper trailer whilst I'm driving or whether I should use a traxide system.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
I'm not too worried about stuff like main battery charge protection etc as I'd only use it when driving...
What would I be missing out on without the traxide? It seems the LR plug is designed to charge caravan batteries etc anyway?
Yeah, I have the same dilemma. I'm awaiting delivery of a jayco outback with a battery, 120W solar panel and a fridge. I too am not sure whether I need to modify the existing connections on my 2013 D4. I have a CTEK DBS currently to run an ARB fridge in the boot and an air compressor in the bonnet. All done by my local land rover mechanic who'll more than likely guide me through this new decision as well but always good to her other options and experiences.
That Ctek will limit charging to 20amp - it will take a lot of driving to recharge low house batteries...
Something to keep in mind