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I just remembered, MLR opt to move gear around in the driver’s side auxiliary battery compartment of a D4 rather then fit the battery tray, which give a tidier finish but is a fair bit of work.
So the quote, which would also include a battery is not to bad and I might also add, I send plenty of customers to MLR if the customer does not want to carry out or they don’t have the time to do the installation themselves.
I paid a total of around $1300 for a full kit in a D3. Bought the kit directly from Tim, had the battery delivered from Batteries Direct so a bit under $800 and then around $500 bucks for the installation.
Hi
Sorry to hijack, but on a similar subject of the Traxide setup, quick question: whats the preferred installation second battery in rear or in engine bay? Does the engine bay heat affect the second battery that bad? It seems strange, given that the main battery also lives there...but I'm not a auto sparky.... 😄
Fair enough. I read the original post as being $1200 just to install it. :eek:
If you include the kit and battery it sounds better, but I still think its a bit expensive for such a simple job.
Cheers,
Jon
Hi jon and I charge $250 to “HELP” with an installation at my workshop.
I do the install as a training exercise for the customer so do a compere and MLR's not a bad price.
Hi SimmAus and the D4 has been around long enough now to show there is no heat problem.
We charge significantly less for the install (depends which model for exact prices) - around $250. But then you have to add the rail freight to Perth and back !!
Cheers,
Gordon
Very funny :D :D :DQuote:
Originally Posted by gghaggis
I thought there were still concerns, hence the Orbital batteries rather than any other AGMs, as I think there are AGMs out there with higher capacity, albeit some are taller.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
How much taller than the Orbital D34 can I go before it becomes a problem for the battery carrier in the kit?
Hi phl and with a D3 and early models of the RRS, the Optima D34 is the only battery that will fit the auxiliary battery compartment without the need of some sort of modification to either the battery, battery bracket, battery compartment or a combination of alterations to the lot.
With the D4 and later models of the RRS, you can move the equipment around in the auxiliary battery compartment and again fit an Optima D34.
Alternatively with the D4 and later models of the RRS, you can fit a battery tray just in front of the cranking battery compartment.
I now have a stainless steal battery tray manufactured for me and I have specifically designed this tray around the Optima D34 as this battery gives the best performance, but other batteries may fit as there is a small amount of clearance available above an Optima D34 when mounted on the battery tray.
I have not tested any other battery so I can not give you specific brand or model info.
SPECIAL NOTE, my battery tray can also be fitted in a D3 and early models of the RRS, if you want to use the auxiliary battery compartment to house something else or if you want to mount two auxiliary batteries under the bonnet.
BTW phl some additional info for you, using one of my isolators and fitting an Optima D34, a 55Ah battery and not discharging the Optima battery below 20% SoC, you will have 45Ah available from the auxiliary battery and 45Ah available from the cranking battery, giving you a total of 90Ah.
This 90Ah of available battery capacity is the equivalent of having to fitting a 112.5Ah battery if you use any other type of isolator.
If you use one of my twin engine bay auxiliary battery kits, you will have a total of 135Ah available and this equates to needing to having an auxiliary battery of 168.25Ah with any other system.
Hi Drivesafe,
Auto Electrics are not my strong suite and this may be a very basic question.
If you have the anderson plug installed, is it feasible to convert a set of jump leads to to be used to jump start other vehicles.
Also does the Traxide system have any ability to display battery charge and condition ?
Regards,
Richard