Also check the options on any petrol v6. I'd expect them to be missing a lot of kit.
There have been instances of people having to have turbos replaced. If you read through all of the D3/D4/RRS forum here as well as the DISCO3.CO.UK - Index site, you will find reports of that happening. But does it appear to be a regular issue? No.
(I tend to analyse purchases to death, and before I shelled out my hard earned on a D3, I made sure I knew as many of the facts as I could get hold of).
Also check the options on any petrol v6. I'd expect them to be missing a lot of kit.
Performance of the TDV6 is really quite excellent given the D3/RRS is a 2.7t vehicle and in fact one of the heaviest road cars you can buy - it will be perform better than the LCs you've driven and will use less fuel as well as being far more refined. I suggest you drive one. It gets off the line rapidly and torque from 2000-3000rpm is excellent. Overtaking performance is acceptable, however you'll want to use manual shift to ensure the engine stays in its favourite torque range, as the trans will shift down otherwise and you'll be sitting at 4Krpm going nowhere fast.
I can't comment on the V6 petrol, but there are some common issues on the TDV6:
-the transmission - the party line from Land Rover is that it is filled for life and does not need to be serviced. The reality is that the trans fluid breaks down around 80-90K km. The trans will start shuddering when the fluid needs replacement - if this is not tended to, long term damage will result. The fluid is replaced along with the pan - it requires the OEM ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid, you cannot use regular ATF in this box.
-timing belt - unusually long interval of 168K km. The belt service is straightforward, however there is a second belt that drives the HPFP which is a PITA to replace. There has been an issue where the main timing belt tensioner mounting breaks off and allows the timing belt to detension and destroy the engine. A new oil pump has been designed and it is common to replace the oil pump at the same time as the belt. It is generally thought to occur more often on 07MY models, but a quick look at a poll on disco3.com will show that it seems to occur across all the models. Quite often it will occur straight after a timing belt change - my own thought is that people are over-tensioning the tensioner bolt and weakening the mount.
-turbo - the turbo is a variable geometry Borg Warner/KKK unit. The variable geometry is achieved via a set of fins that can be set at a range of angles to achieve a better spread of boost response. The fins can get jammed in place from excessive carbon buildup which then causes the actuator rod to stick. Some people say that running 2 stroke oil in your diesel can help to prevent this. The turbo is otherwise a reliable unit and I've heard of at least one lasting over 600,000km. Note especially that it is generally considered to be a 'body off' job to replace it.
-EGR valves are a common issue on the diesel. You can blank them off on pre 07MY cars and some people say you can blank them off on the later ones too.
-these cars are designed to have the body removed to allow access to major maintenance parts. It's about a 4 hour job but you'll need a hoist.
-the suspension compressor (you WANT one with air suspension) is also a common failure item.
I've had my 08 RRS for three months now and am loving it. It has already clocked nearly 20K km in my ownership. It has become the vehicle of choice for all the outings of my household (live on a large property with my three best mates) including trips to some places where people are surprised to see an RRS - you get a few looks when you roll up to a rodeo in an RRS! Even people who previously didn't like LRs love the car and comment on how well it seems to do everything.
I am not sure where that comes from - certainly not from Landrover. The service schedule indicates the gearbox requires service every 240,000km or 10 years but where it has arduous use the interval is half that.
Now I personally think that is far too long - ZF the makers believe it should be serviced about 90,000km - but this is a myth that the gearbox is sealed for life.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
The V8's a great engine. Bit thirsty when the car's got a roof rack on it but in my RRS I'm getting around 450k's round town and 600k's on a run from the tank before I need to fill up. I never run it dry though, so normally I'll pour 75 litres into it.
I don't think you'd grumble with the TDV6 though.
I think what you will find with this question is those who own the diesel will recommend the diesel and those who own petrol will recommend it. One is not necessarily markedly better than the other but there are some pro's and con's for each in certain circumstances.
For your intended use of mostly blacktop and tracks both vehicles will handle those easily and in a similar manner so the engine isn't really a factor.
If you need fuel economy and as a by product additional range - diesel
If you need a lower purchase/entry price - petrol V6 (it will take many years before diesel economy pays the difference back).
Very heavy and frequent towing - diesel
Acceleration/performance - petrol V8
Maintenance costs...anyones guess, both have common wear items that cant be avoided such as suspension compressor, front suspension components, transmission maintenance, hand brake cleaning and actuators etc. I don't think in reality there is a huge difference between the 2. Perhaps the petrol is slightly cheaper than the diesel due to it not having a turbo that can fail although I don't have figures to confirm this. I'm not sure if there is much difference in general servicing costs.
As far as options, about the only thing I've found with the V6 petrol is that a snorkel is not readily available. One can be fitted if really needed. Everything else that goes on the diesels seems to either be a direct fit on the petrol as the bodies are the same. A front winch bar is available for the petrol.
For me, the petrol fits my needs perfectly and as you point out is around $10k cheaper and is often either a newer model and has lower K's. The lower entry cost was a big factor in our decision making. The things that would sway me to the diesel in the future would be if I was doing extended outback travel or pulling a massive van or boat. I'm not likely to do either in the near future so I'm sticking with my petrol V6.
Whatever you get, you will enjoy it.
Completely agree. The lower entry point and the fact that it will take 10 years in cost recovery (at least) for Diesel over Petrol is why I went that way. If you can find a V8 go for that - but the V6 is very smooth and great around town - just dont be heavy footed on the gas ;-) like the wife coz then it will drink the floods dry!
Last year a return trip to the Blue Mountains from Brisbane with 5 people and fully loaded rack and boot and I got avg of 13l/100K.
No need for timing belt changed certainly is persuasive and other servicing (non-engine) is all the same. I've had front bushes (lower arm replacement), battery and alternator and all round pads and front disks done in 4 years on a 2nd hand 2007 V6 SE now at 135kms...my family all love it and will keep it for another 2 years I reckon until I can afford a D4 diesel (I hope !).
Consider resale too. The price premium you pay for diesel grows as a percentages as the vehicles age and comes back at sale time. Those considering only the fuel cost of the petrol will also take a bath at resale time.
Thanks, guys. Really appreciate your advice.
Yep. Although it wouldn't be the end of the world if it didn't have air suspension I need 7 seats, and as I understand only the SE and up came with 7 seats, so an SE or HSE it is.
Thanks. Yeah it seems the diesels hold their value quite a bit too, there are heaps on carsales.com.au with over 200klms on them.
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