Printable View
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddomak
Sorry, I thought you were Gotaflat. I was talking about the Perth indie.
My Bosch was leaking acid at the terminal so I wouldn't buy another one. With the standard LR battery I've never had corrosion at the terminals. I didn't know it was leaking until I went to remove it because I had never looked at the battery since it was installed! The Bosch was the first replacement battery my car has had since 2010.
Gottaflat.
Give Westrac in guildford(open 24 hours I believe) or bunbury a ring and see what they can do.MANY of us fitted CAT batteries to our D2's.
You can pay cash(no account needed) and they were very well priced for the oversized D2 battery we all ran.They are made for earthmoving gear so tough.It all gets down to IF they can supply the D4 size battery.
Andrew
So far I have the original battery (4.5y) so far.
I do long runs and give it a charge with the Ctec every week if I do short runs.
When it dies eventually I will replace with a Varta G14 which is also an AGM as is the original Exide (Jaguar brand)
As a side note my wife's 2008 TDI Golf Pacific still has its factory original Varta but I think it is on its last legs, yet it started the car when we came back from a 5 week holiday.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddomak
If your Indy is near North Sydney, I had a similar experience with a $300 wheel alignment. It took the apprentices a long time to get it done and a very short while later I get steering sensor calibration errors. Fortunately I had an IID tool and sorted that out myself.
I only went there because of the recommendation of other forum members and due to my preferred Indy being unavailable. I won't return.
I replaced my original battery with a Varta G14 bought from a forum member in Canberra (RRD Turbo?) The price was very good and the battery has proven to be excellent.
Hi eddomak and my isolators do help to extend the operating life span of both the auxiliary battery and the cranking battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by eddomak
The isolators not only share the load while you are camping and powering your accessories, but my isolators also work in reverse.
All other isolators turn off when the motor is turned off ( or turn of shortly after ) but because my isolators are specifically designed to keep the cranking battery and the auxiliary batteries connected, when you start your motor, around 20% of the energy used to start your motor will come from the auxiliary battery.
This gives a multitude of advantages.
First off, your total available CCA while starting your motor is much higher and this means the voltage while starting is higher and this makes it easier for the starter motor to turn your motor over. ( better starts ).
Once started, because your cranking battery has not had to provide as much energy to start your motor than it would need to if starting under the normal single battery setup, your starting battery will not be as low as it would be.
Because the starting battery is not as low, means the used energy will e replaced in a shorter drive time, and this helps to reduce the problems caused by continual short trips around around town.
Also because of the way my isolators work, your auxiliary battery is always going to be in a higher state of charge than the cranking battery and this has the advantage of when you turn your motor off, again, because my isolators do not turn off at this time, the higher charged auxiliary battery will slowly discharged back into the cranking battery.
This one simple operating, over a period of time, progressively brings your cranking battery up to a far higher state of charge than it would normally be in and then keeps it there.
All this works to help extend the operating life of your cranking battery.
ALSO NOTE, my systems are ideal for use in new LRs with STOP/START operations. Again this is because my systems share the continual starting loads over two batteries.
I have just fitted Tim's kit to my 2008 tdv8 L322. The car seems to definitely like the extra amps, including starting better. It's a good kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
RACV put a battery in our car for $286 all up. It's above standard spec for CCAs but we have a traxide so hard to say how it performs.
As BobD alludes to, I don't know how strong it'd be for constant offroad use but that's (sadly) not an issue for us.
Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
Mine is sitting in the driveway on the ctek right now, having failed to proceed :mad:
Seems the car likes this weather less than I do! :angel:
It hasn't been holding charge well for a few weeks so after 4 years on the original battery, looks like I'm buying one too.
-4 here this morning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytemrk
Took this pic at 8.00am.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/07/758.jpg
Andrew
Just had my 2 year old original battery replaced under warranty last week during the 24 month service. Four times with a flat battery in the last three weeks. Charged three times with a CTek, but unfortunately longest period was 36 hours, so none long enough for float charge to take effect. 9.8V dead battery the night before service. Charge overnight to get it into dealer and replaced with new under warranty as a premature fault. Now I have the CTek and because most of my drives this year are short 15-20 minutes, I will be charging (including float) every month or two to keep it in good SoC.
Took it for a drive the week before it's first flat charge episode, solely to try and get a bit of charge into it, but forgot that under load it does not charge and I spent most of the time overtaking road trains so probably just made it worse.
Traxide USI 160 and Yellow top is up next, but after I let the trouble and strife get over the recent cost of GOE rims and imminent cost of ARB bar.