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Thread: How long is the life of your D4 battery?

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
    Are we talking about the same independent (as mine is in Sydney)? I know it doesn't change the discussion (as the battery is the main talking point here), but was just interested.

    Also with the battery from the dealer I understand you just wanted to get on the road at the time, but out of interest, would you buy the same Bosch battery again under less hurried circumstances?

    Cheers!

    Sorry, I thought you were Gotaflat. I was talking about the Perth indie.


    My Bosch was leaking acid at the terminal so I wouldn't buy another one. With the standard LR battery I've never had corrosion at the terminals. I didn't know it was leaking until I went to remove it because I had never looked at the battery since it was installed! The Bosch was the first replacement battery my car has had since 2010.
    Bob

    2010 D4 3.0TDV6 SE, ediff, LLAMS, 5 x GOE wheels, LT285/60R18 BFG K02's, GOE Compressor Guard, LR Tank, Mitch Hitch, ECB Bull Bar, Kaymar Rear Bar, Traxide, Safari Snorkel.
    2019 Discovery 5 SD6 SE, 20 inch wheels, 275/55R20 Nitto Grappler G2 tyres

  2. #92
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    Feb 2004
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    Gottaflat.
    Give Westrac in guildford(open 24 hours I believe) or bunbury a ring and see what they can do.MANY of us fitted CAT batteries to our D2's.
    You can pay cash(no account needed) and they were very well priced for the oversized D2 battery we all ran.They are made for earthmoving gear so tough.It all gets down to IF they can supply the D4 size battery.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
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  3. #93
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    So far I have the original battery (4.5y) so far.
    I do long runs and give it a charge with the Ctec every week if I do short runs.
    When it dies eventually I will replace with a Varta G14 which is also an AGM as is the original Exide (Jaguar brand)
    As a side note my wife's 2008 TDI Golf Pacific still has its factory original Varta but I think it is on its last legs, yet it started the car when we came back from a 5 week holiday.
    2012 Fuji White 3.0 D4, Rear view camera, Hi-line sound, E-diff, Xenon lights, ARB winch bar, Lightforce 240 50w HID. Brads sliders.

  4. #94
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    Ranelagh, Tasmania
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
    Well our 2nd battery has died a couple of weeks ago, so that makes our battery life around 3 years (give or take a couple of months) each time with our type of usage (mainly city driving of 5 -10 kms).



    The price of the replacement battery from an independent LR specialist was just under $300.



    I was a bit surprised that another $200 or so was charged for checking/clearing faults and the physical swapover, but as they seem to have a good reputation with some folk here and the Range Rover Club, am inclined to trust them.



    I wonder if getting a Traxide DBS would end up extending the life of the main battery?



    P.S. I just read over the thread and was also surprised to find that I was the OP.


    If your Indy is near North Sydney, I had a similar experience with a $300 wheel alignment. It took the apprentices a long time to get it done and a very short while later I get steering sensor calibration errors. Fortunately I had an IID tool and sorted that out myself.
    I only went there because of the recommendation of other forum members and due to my preferred Indy being unavailable. I won't return.

    I replaced my original battery with a Varta G14 bought from a forum member in Canberra (RRD Turbo?) The price was very good and the battery has proven to be excellent.
    Fuji white RRS L494 AB Gone
    2023 Ford Ranga

  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
    I wonder if getting a Traxide DBS would end up extending the life of the main battery?
    Hi eddomak and my isolators do help to extend the operating life span of both the auxiliary battery and the cranking battery.

    The isolators not only share the load while you are camping and powering your accessories, but my isolators also work in reverse.

    All other isolators turn off when the motor is turned off ( or turn of shortly after ) but because my isolators are specifically designed to keep the cranking battery and the auxiliary batteries connected, when you start your motor, around 20% of the energy used to start your motor will come from the auxiliary battery.

    This gives a multitude of advantages.

    First off, your total available CCA while starting your motor is much higher and this means the voltage while starting is higher and this makes it easier for the starter motor to turn your motor over. ( better starts ).

    Once started, because your cranking battery has not had to provide as much energy to start your motor than it would need to if starting under the normal single battery setup, your starting battery will not be as low as it would be.

    Because the starting battery is not as low, means the used energy will e replaced in a shorter drive time, and this helps to reduce the problems caused by continual short trips around around town.

    Also because of the way my isolators work, your auxiliary battery is always going to be in a higher state of charge than the cranking battery and this has the advantage of when you turn your motor off, again, because my isolators do not turn off at this time, the higher charged auxiliary battery will slowly discharged back into the cranking battery.

    This one simple operating, over a period of time, progressively brings your cranking battery up to a far higher state of charge than it would normally be in and then keeps it there.

    All this works to help extend the operating life of your cranking battery.

    ALSO NOTE, my systems are ideal for use in new LRs with STOP/START operations. Again this is because my systems share the continual starting loads over two batteries.

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi eddomak and my isolators do help to extend the operating life span of both the auxiliary battery and the cranking battery. The isolators not only share the load while you are camping and powering your accessories, but my isolators also work in reverse. All other isolators turn off when the motor is turned off ( or turn of shortly after ) but because my isolators are specifically designed to keep the cranking battery and the auxiliary batteries connected, when you start your motor, around 20% of the energy used to start your motor will come from the auxiliary battery. This gives a multitude of advantages. First off, your total available CCA while starting your motor is much higher and this means the voltage while starting is higher and this makes it easier for the starter motor to turn your motor over. ( better starts ). Once started, because your cranking battery has not had to provide as much energy to start your motor than it would need to if starting under the normal single battery setup, your starting battery will not be as low as it would be. Because the starting battery is not as low, means the used energy will e replaced in a shorter drive time, and this helps to reduce the problems caused by continual short trips around around town. Also because of the way my isolators work, your auxiliary battery is always going to be in a higher state of charge than the cranking battery and this has the advantage of when you turn your motor off, again, because my isolators do not turn off at this time, the higher charged auxiliary battery will slowly discharged back into the cranking battery. This one simple operating, over a period of time, progressively brings your cranking battery up to a far higher state of charge than it would normally be in and then keeps it there. All this works to help extend the operating life of your cranking battery. ALSO NOTE, my systems are ideal for use in new LRs with STOP/START operations. Again this is because my systems share the continual starting loads over two batteries.
    I have just fitted Tim's kit to my 2008 tdv8 L322. The car seems to definitely like the extra amps, including starting better. It's a good kit.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
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  7. #97
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    RACV put a battery in our car for $286 all up. It's above standard spec for CCAs but we have a traxide so hard to say how it performs.
    As BobD alludes to, I don't know how strong it'd be for constant offroad use but that's (sadly) not an issue for us.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
    Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
    Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
    Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
    Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
    First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'

  8. #98
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    Mine is sitting in the driveway on the ctek right now, having failed to proceed

    Seems the car likes this weather less than I do!

    It hasn't been holding charge well for a few weeks so after 4 years on the original battery, looks like I'm buying one too.
    Mark

    Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most

    2015 TDV6 D4.... the latest project... Llams, Traxide, Icom 455, Tuffant Kimberleys and Mofos.... so far.
    2012 SDV6 SE D4 with some stuff... gone...
    2003 D2a TD5...gone...
    2000 D2 V8...gone...
    https://bymark.photography


  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bytemrk View Post
    Mine is sitting in the driveway on the ctek right now, having failed to proceed

    Seems the car likes this weather less than I do!

    It hasn't been holding charge well for a few weeks so after 4 years on the original battery, looks like I'm buying one too.
    -4 here this morning.
    Took this pic at 8.00am.

    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  10. #100
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    Just had my 2 year old original battery replaced under warranty last week during the 24 month service. Four times with a flat battery in the last three weeks. Charged three times with a CTek, but unfortunately longest period was 36 hours, so none long enough for float charge to take effect. 9.8V dead battery the night before service. Charge overnight to get it into dealer and replaced with new under warranty as a premature fault. Now I have the CTek and because most of my drives this year are short 15-20 minutes, I will be charging (including float) every month or two to keep it in good SoC.
    Took it for a drive the week before it's first flat charge episode, solely to try and get a bit of charge into it, but forgot that under load it does not charge and I spent most of the time overtaking road trains so probably just made it worse.
    Traxide USI 160 and Yellow top is up next, but after I let the trouble and strife get over the recent cost of GOE rims and imminent cost of ARB bar.
    Cheers, Mungus.
    _________________
    MY14D4HSE, Nara Bronze, E-Diff, Vision Assist, Surround Cameras, LLAMS, ProSpeed Sliders/Compressor plate, Mitch Hitch,
    ARB Summit Bar, Runva 11XP, Traxide D3-DU, GOE Comp. Rims, D697 265/60R18, Rijidij RWC, Fyrlyts.

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