Bull bar information

Quote:

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Originally Posted by discojools

"If you get an Opposite Lock bar, tell them you don't want 20mm plus clearance for the flairs."
Yeah been there myself. After 4 revisits to OL here in Melb gave up, bit the bullet ordered two new flares and had my panel beater refit the bar and new flares ( which he cut perfectly) but cost me $600 extra..
Mine looks OK now.

Haven't been back to OL again and never will.

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Hi guys,

Don't be too hard on the OL bar itself. I don't mind it and has already deflected one skippy saving me thousands of dollars. Like any franchise there are good outlets and the bad. In my instance the Newcastle OL boys are great to deal with and know Land Rovers. I specifically told them l didn't want a huge gap and they complied. In fact you can see from the photo l have no gap due to the type of rubber insert they have used, yet still alows the chassis to move freely. The black cable ties to hold the wheel arch covers appear to be standard issue, but cheap to replace if you need to access under the bar for any reason.

Regards Trif.

Not giving the bar a hard time just the monkeys that fitted it!

Yes, I like the bar. It has more clearance for larger tires, LED lights, UHF mounts up high, front sensors and camera provision. I'm just rather peed off with the fitting.

ARB has now sorted the D4 front sensor issue with a new design that incorporates the OEM mounts from LR. My front sensors now work perfectly.

Hi all, after quite a bit of searching these topics and threads I went with the OL bar, again, it was about sensors, cameras and the ability to still change the light globes that got it over the line. I was told by the OL retailer that the sensors are held in place by silicon, (sikaflex) seems like a poorly engineered solution, I will look at another way of doing it I think. Can anyone confirm this? Interestingly I called the ARB dealer down south in Adelaide 4 days ago and was told that the ARB bar was not camera compatible, made the decision easy really, so you do wonder about product knowledge given all the comments on this forum.
Anyway, for those who have an OL bar, it seems 10mm between the flairs and the bar is the considered to be enough clearance, has anyone had any contact problems at 10mm when off road.
Thanks

I have an OL bar and was initially disappointed with a 20mm plus gap at the flairs.

OL said it was because it stopped the flairs being knocked off...."Yeah right" I thought. But I'm not too fussed by looks. Otherwise I was happy with the installation. I have sensors and cameras, all work.

Then I crossed the Simpson. Driving toward one of the 1100 dunes I discover too late that there was a deep trough at the end of the approach and the front wheels were in it when we smacked into the dune. Full frontal impact and a complete stop in a wall of sand.

I was surprised (read pleased) that the air bags did not deploy. It gave my wife a fright and a sore shoulder.

Inspection revealed that the bar had been tilted slightly back and there was now no gap on the driver's side and a couple of mm on the passenger's. Flairs intact.

On return we went back to OL who took the bar off checked everything and put it back on as good as new. Gaps restored as before. No major parts bent or damaged. A few wrinkles in the lower panels of the bar to straighten (easy job).

I am happy there is a decent gap to allow the bull bar to do its job......Flex, absorb and protect.

I have a D3S with a steel ARB Bull Bar. I have front sensors installed without any issue of warranty. They work fine too!

Just to reignite this thread, I have 2013 D4 with park sensors,and have damaged my OEM bar on my Harvey extreme experince plus some under body plastic winglet thingies and the front fender is not aligned anymore.

Good excuse to go bullbar shopping!

After reading all the comments, my question is can anyone recommend a good supplier / installer in the Perth area? ARB or or OL, It seems more important to find a good installer rather than the brand of the bar ?

Tossing up between black or colour coding Fuji White to match the car?

Any pictures / thoughts to help make the decision,

Looking at pricing, baring in mind the WA tax, which is getting smaller due to the current market conditions ! Seems quite varied well.

Thanks
Jack

Can't remember who did my ARB. It was actually handled by a LR recommended panel beater when it was in for a roo strike. I think it was west coast bars but call Lombardi Brothers panel beaters for the correct name. They said they were the best in Perth and did all their work. I'm very pleased with the job they did.

They supplied the bar. ARB said 4 to 6 weeks for me but these guys did it in about ten days. So they clearly have privilege at the factory.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GP1200

Just to reignite this thread, I have 2013 D4 with park sensors,and have damaged my OEM bar on my Harvey extreme experince plus some under body plastic winglet thingies and the front fender is not aligned anymore.

Good excuse to go bullbar shopping!

After reading all the comments, my question is can anyone recommend a good supplier / installer in the Perth area? ARB or or OL, It seems more important to find a good installer rather than the brand of the bar ?

Tossing up between black or colour coding Fuji White to match the car?

Any pictures / thoughts to help make the decision,

Looking at pricing, baring in mind the WA tax, which is getting smaller due to the current market conditions ! Seems quite varied well.

Thanks
Jack

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My D4 is also appliance white,and i went for a colour coded bar.
I don't like it for two reasons,the paint is very difficult to keep clean,and being white shows every mark,whether it be an insect or a stone chip.

The other issue is if you do any beach work it will get rust marks along many of the edges.

My other vehicles had black bars,so much easier to live with.