Gearbox issue? Advice for next course of action needed

**Calis** · 5th April 2013, 12:18 PM

Originally Posted by Graeme

In February I bought from ZF in Sydney and had the package delivered.

Hey Graeme, I gave ZF another call. They seem confused internally about if if they deal direct to public..lol.. did you simply call cust service/spare parts?

ta mate.

**Calis** · 5th April 2013, 12:46 PM

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**Calis** · 5th April 2013, 12:47 PM

ok dont worry all sorted just spoke with Supervisor and all done.

**Calis** · 11th April 2013, 02:35 PM

Parts received and ready to go.

Anyone have the part number for the trans drain/filler plug?

thanks.

**Calis** · 18th April 2013, 09:15 AM

Changed the oil on the weekend. Oil was almost as black as what comes out of a motor. Seemed too black for 133,000 km. Runs pretty smooth after oil change. It did a bit of gear searching initially but then towed the boat home 150km on the freeway no probs.

Trans almost seemed over-filled when we pulled the side fill plug and a fair bit of oil came out. LR's instructions say fill till it starts coming out the fill hole. Maybe factory fill with a different method as there was no way to get more in other then tilting the vehicle on one side more then the other.

Went to change the pan to ZF steel pan but couldn't for the life or us get to the end screws with the cross beams in the way! and ran out of time to do any sort of engine lift. Thought the steel pan meant no engine lift?

Has anyone done the steel pan on their D4 themselves and how did you get those end 5 screws out without lifting the motor.

**Calis** · 18th April 2013, 10:04 AM

Hmmm.... seems a trans lift is whats required instead of engine lift.

**Rich84** · 18th April 2013, 12:13 PM

Originally Posted by Calis

Trans almost seemed over-filled when we pulled the side fill plug and a fair bit of oil came out. LR's instructions say fill till it starts coming out the fill hole. Maybe factory fill with a different method as there was no way to get more in other then tilting the vehicle on one side more then the other.

Went to change the pan to ZF steel pan but couldn't for the life or us get to the end screws with the cross beams in the way! and ran out of time to do any sort of engine lift. Thought the steel pan meant no engine lift?

You did the fill check with the engine running right? If it's off then yes a lot will come out the fill hole.

Fill procedure is the same deal - fill sump until fluid runs out, turn engine on and AC too. Cycle through all gears, holding each one for about 3 seconds, top up. Let fluid get to ~35deg and if there's a thin trickle coming out your filler hole, you're golden.

As for the bolts, they don't seem that hard on the D3/RRS - can you get in there with a torx allen key?

**Calis** · 19th April 2013, 06:38 PM

Hey Rich cant say I followed that procedure to be honest.
Basically drained the box, refilled till it ran out the fill hole. Engine was off. Started her up and then took for about 5-10min gentle drive. Came back and checked level again and filled up till running out the fill hole. So possibly a little low now so will check tomorrow.

You can only just get the torx key in but it wouldn't let you totally unscrew the bolt because the cross member doesn't leave enough room to fully unscrew it.

I drove the car for the first time since the weekend today. Wife said it runs smoother and didnt notice anything different really.But when I drove it I gave it a big boot up the hill out of my drive it was slipping and took a second to engage. Also seems the box is a bit erratic now. Sport shift seems more responsive and punchy though.

Anyone had a gearbox reset? seeings it remembers how you drive I wondering if its helpful or not.

**QPN** · 20th April 2013, 09:35 AM

Originally Posted by Calis

Went to change the pan to ZF steel pan but couldn't for the life or us get to the end screws with the cross beams in the way! and ran out of time to do any sort of engine lift. Thought the steel pan meant no engine lift?

Has anyone done the steel pan on their D4 themselves and how did you get those end 5 screws out without lifting the motor.

The oil was black so I understand the filter had to be changed (and the pan in order to change the filter) - but more generally, for those who don't tow for example, I understand the gearbox oil can be changed without changing the plastic pan - I don't think the filter can be changed but at least the gearbox gets fresh oil. Anyone done this or is it a case of do the complete job (change oil, change pan, change filter) ?

**Rich84** · 22nd April 2013, 07:59 AM

I did my own megaflush style flush this weekend, replaced the pan with a steel one. I had to buy torx allen keys to get the bolts out - the ones toward the front of the vehicle being the worst for access. I was able to get them mostly out with the torx keys and then twist them out with my fingers. When you're installing the new pan and gasket, firstly ensure the filter can sit flat and that the standoff pins aren't fouling on a screw etc on the valve body, then find a way to keep the gasket flat on the pan, a bit of tape etc will save you a lot of time trying to get it to keep where it's meant to be!

Oil started off being black and at the last dump from the oil cooler inlet pipe, was honey brown. Took 15L to get to that. Car runs smoother but I find it is still slightly harsh when doing 'hot' work like hills, towing, etc. Nothing like before though.

I will fit an aftermarket aux cooler this weekend and report back.

Calis your box is slipping and running eratically because there's not enough oil in it - you'll find that after you turn the engine on and run through the gears, you can get at least another 1 - 1.5L in, especially in my case where I'd drained 2.5L at a time from the oil cooler inlet.

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