Having just replaced mine recently, i can confirm those hoses can be tough to remove. The skin on my knuckles and arms are still recovering... :censored:
Have also noticed much improved performance since.
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Having just replaced mine recently, i can confirm those hoses can be tough to remove. The skin on my knuckles and arms are still recovering... :censored:
Have also noticed much improved performance since.
MY11 D4 SDV6SE with 170,000 kms on the clock.
Just had same issue - sticky actuator.
Solenoid replaced, fault recurred, actuator rod freed up.
Questions;
1. Can I lubricate the actuator somehow? I was thinking a high temperature lithium or silicon type lubricant. The fact that the LR dealer freed up the actuator without removing the turbo from the car tells me its at least possible to reach it and free it up.
2. Should I be concerned that i will destroy a turbo any time soon and therefore risk the entire engine? I.e. do I bite the bullet and replace the sec. turbo before it becomes a complete engine replacement?
3. From the post below (seems very similar issue) - any chance of getting a pic?:
"NOT the primary turbo - sticky 2nd turbo isolation valve4. Is this common with higher mileage D4's or other TT engines?
All better now. The cause was a sticky secondary turbo isolation valve that was still stuck open until the rod on the vacuum chamber was touched. After going for a short run to confirm the fix, the valve body was removed to reveal dirt jamming between the linkage plate and the housing. A good squirt with WD40 and its all clean until next time when I'll just do the squirting with the housing and hoses still in place.
The valve is located behind the right front guard behind the plastic cover at the very bottom front. With the vehicle at off-road height and wheels hard right, access was quite reasonable. I'll grab a pic before refitting the cover."
Eric
The pictures are in post #8 in this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Scott
Hi everyone,
Been chasing the following codes this weekend;
Attachment 153494
Found this this post from Graeme:
15th June 2013, 05:32 PM
Graeme
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/st...er-offline.pngOldBushieVendor
Join DateJan 1970LocationNSW South West SlopesPosts9,551Post Thanks / Like https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/bu...llapse_40b.png
NOT the primary turbo - sticky 2nd turbo isolation valveAll better now. The cause was a sticky secondary turbo isolation valve that was still stuck open until the rod on the vacuum chamber was touched. After going for a short run to confirm the fix, the valve body was removed to reveal dirt jamming between the linkage plate and the housing. A good squirt with WD40 and its all clean until next time when I'll just do the squirting with the housing and hoses still in place.
The valve is located behind the right front guard behind the plastic cover at the very bottom front. With the vehicle at off-road height and wheels hard right, access was quite reasonable. I'll grab a pic before refitting the cover.
Edit: A post on Disco3.co.uk referred to the same 4 fault codes that caused the LR techo to immediately identify this valve as the cause.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS 2m rx
Ive taken the sec. turbo isolation valve out of the vehicle, the valve flap moves easily, the rod from the dashpot to the valve moves without issue. There was some oil in the valve itself, and even took the solenoid off and cleaned that out, there was some oil in there too. Visual inspection of the secondary turbo itself and prodding that actuator it appears to move freely. All induction lines are tight and no leaks that I can detect.
anyone have any other ideas?
The solenoid valve or the vacuum chamber on the valve may be faulty. I carried a spare solenoid because of reports of them failing after a few years.
Thanks Graeme, thats the one before the secondary turbo right? That was my next guess, just ran out of time on the w/end. Ive got a spare i think.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
LR021929 - I carry a spare after reading of its potential to fail. Cheers, Scott
3.0l Turbo malfunction
https://rimmerbros.com/ItemImages/La...2967-Large.jpg
Anyone got a diagram where this fits?
Look for Scott's picture of it at the front top of the engine. The vacuum hose runs down the front.
That's why I linked to ferret's thread, photos in the thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
