Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 56

Thread: Sticky primary turbo actuator - external fix?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    450
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Having just replaced mine recently, i can confirm those hoses can be tough to remove. The skin on my knuckles and arms are still recovering...
    Have also noticed much improved performance since.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    2,123
    Total Downloaded
    0

    D4 Sticking secondary turbo actuator

    MY11 D4 SDV6SE with 170,000 kms on the clock.

    Just had same issue - sticky actuator.

    Solenoid replaced, fault recurred, actuator rod freed up.

    Questions;
    1. Can I lubricate the actuator somehow? I was thinking a high temperature lithium or silicon type lubricant. The fact that the LR dealer freed up the actuator without removing the turbo from the car tells me its at least possible to reach it and free it up.
    2. Should I be concerned that i will destroy a turbo any time soon and therefore risk the entire engine? I.e. do I bite the bullet and replace the sec. turbo before it becomes a complete engine replacement?
    3. From the post below (seems very similar issue) - any chance of getting a pic?:
    "NOT the primary turbo - sticky 2nd turbo isolation valve
    All better now. The cause was a sticky secondary turbo isolation valve that was still stuck open until the rod on the vacuum chamber was touched. After going for a short run to confirm the fix, the valve body was removed to reveal dirt jamming between the linkage plate and the housing. A good squirt with WD40 and its all clean until next time when I'll just do the squirting with the housing and hoses still in place.

    The valve is located behind the right front guard behind the plastic cover at the very bottom front. With the vehicle at off-road height and wheels hard right, access was quite reasonable. I'll grab a pic before refitting the cover."
    4. Is this common with higher mileage D4's or other TT engines?

    Eric

  3. #13
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,723
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    3. From the post below (seems very similar issue) - any chance of getting a pic?:
    "NOT the primary turbo - sticky 2nd turbo isolation valve
    All better now. The cause was a sticky secondary turbo isolation valve that was still stuck open until the rod on the vacuum chamber was touched. After going for a short run to confirm the fix, the valve body was removed to reveal dirt jamming between the linkage plate and the housing. A good squirt with WD40 and its all clean until next time when I'll just do the squirting with the housing and hoses still in place.

    The valve is located behind the right front guard behind the plastic cover at the very bottom front. With the vehicle at off-road height and wheels hard right, access was quite reasonable. I'll grab a pic before refitting the cover."
    The pictures are in post #8 in this thread.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    2,123
    Total Downloaded
    0

    P22D3 and P22C fault code

    Hi everyone,

    Been chasing the following codes this weekend;

    923B7763-58E1-4213-AF7D-C601BF0926F2.jpg

    Found this this post from Graeme:
    15th June 2013, 05:32 PM
    Graeme
    OldBushieVendor



    Join DateJan 1970LocationNSW South West SlopesPosts9,551Post Thanks / Like


    NOT the primary turbo - sticky 2nd turbo isolation valve

    All better now. The cause was a sticky secondary turbo isolation valve that was still stuck open until the rod on the vacuum chamber was touched. After going for a short run to confirm the fix, the valve body was removed to reveal dirt jamming between the linkage plate and the housing. A good squirt with WD40 and its all clean until next time when I'll just do the squirting with the housing and hoses still in place.

    The valve is located behind the right front guard behind the plastic cover at the very bottom front. With the vehicle at off-road height and wheels hard right, access was quite reasonable. I'll grab a pic before refitting the cover.

    Edit: A post on Disco3.co.uk referred to the same 4 fault codes that caused the LR techo to immediately identify this valve as the cause.

    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS 2m rx


    Ive taken the sec. turbo isolation valve out of the vehicle, the valve flap moves easily, the rod from the dashpot to the valve moves without issue. There was some oil in the valve itself, and even took the solenoid off and cleaned that out, there was some oil in there too. Visual inspection of the secondary turbo itself and prodding that actuator it appears to move freely. All induction lines are tight and no leaks that I can detect.

    anyone have any other ideas?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    11,475
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The solenoid valve or the vacuum chamber on the valve may be faulty. I carried a spare solenoid because of reports of them failing after a few years.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    2,123
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    The solenoid valve or the vacuum chamber on the valve may be faulty. I carried a spare solenoid because of reports of them failing after a few years.
    Thanks Graeme, thats the one before the secondary turbo right? That was my next guess, just ran out of time on the w/end. Ive got a spare i think.

  7. #17
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,723
    Total Downloaded
    0
    LR021929 - I carry a spare after reading of its potential to fail. Cheers, Scott
    3.0l Turbo malfunction
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    2,123
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Anyone got a diagram where this fits?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    11,475
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Look for Scott's picture of it at the front top of the engine. The vacuum hose runs down the front.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  10. #20
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,723
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Anyone got a diagram where this fits?
    That's why I linked to ferret's thread, photos in the thread.

Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!