Thread: Sticky primary turbo actuator - external fix?

Originally Posted by Disco4TT3

I did try that cleaner after pulling out the MAP sensor and seeing the amount of black gunk that came out with it. But it didn’t seem to do much. Trying to find the time and money to get a full manual intake clean done.

Thought about them too, but manual clean is the way to go. Unfortunately getting the manifolds off is a PITA requiring injectors and fuel rail to come out too, so at best you can manyally clean the intake tract from the top intercooler hose to just past the throttle body Y, provide you remove all these. Did mine last June, think ive still got the gunk under my fingernails. The CEM stuff is supposed to remove a lot, an EGR delete needs to be done to stop it happening in the first place, but thats another $500-$1000 exercise, as this requires ECU reprogramming etc. Might try the CEM route....

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Thought about them too, but manual clean is the way to go. Unfortunately getting the manifolds off is a PITA requiring injectors and fuel rail to come out too, so at best you can manyally clean the intake tract from the top intercooler hose to just past the throttle body Y, provide you remove all these. Did mine last June, think ive still got the gunk under my fingernails. The CEM stuff is supposed to remove a lot, an EGR delete needs to be done to stop it happening in the first place, but thats another $500-$1000 exercise, as this requires ECU reprogramming etc. Might try the CEM route....

Eric - Pardon my ignorance if I'm wrong again, but isn't it possible to do an EGR delete with a GAP Tool (or possibly even a Rovacom IQ?)

As an aside/possible follow-on, for those in the know, how much can a GAP Tool do in an alternative D4 to the owner's car?

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Eric - Pardon my ignorance if I'm wrong again, but isn't it possible to do an EGR delete with a GAP Tool (or possibly even a Rovacom IQ?)

As an aside/possible follow-on, for those in the know, how much can a GAP Tool do in an alternative D4 to the owner's car?

Hi Gavin, as far as i understand on the D4s the EGRs control is embedded in the ECU so the only options are emulators or editing the software to delete them, plus blanking them off closed. It is different in the D3s and also the 2.7 D4s as i understand it.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Hi Gavin, as far as i understand on the D4s the EGRs control is embedded in the ECU so the only options are emulators or editing the software to delete them, plus blanking them off closed. It is different in the D3s and also the 2.7 D4s as i understand it.

The story is - It’s embedded on all however you cannot write to the ECU on the 3L without removing it from the car and doing it on the bench. For some model 2.7 you are able to write to it without removing and can be done using the IID TOOL to flash new firmware from BAS etc. kind of the right track though.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

The story is - It’s embedded on all however you cannot write to the ECU on the 3L without removing it from the car and doing it on the bench. For some model 2.7 you are able to write to it without removing and can be done using the IID TOOL to flash new firmware from BAS etc. kind of the right track though.

Thanks guys.
I actually already have ERG delete and remap via DazzaTD5, but if the job could have been done in situ with a GAP tool or RovaCom IQ, was going to offer access to mine (assuming the GAP Tool can work on other D4s - still haven't worked out just how much the IQ can do).

Now to find out if I can access my high beams to fit the new STEDI LEDs, without fully dismantling the ARB front bar!!

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Now to find out if I can access my high beams to fit the new STEDI LEDs, without fully dismantling the ARB front bar!!

I simply snipped the high beam wire on one light, soldered in a spur connection, used glue impregnated heat shrink to seal it and connected to the spotlights from there. You can access the headlight plug from within the engine bay.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I simply snipped the high beam wire on one light, soldered in a spur connection, used glue impregnated heat shrink to seal it and connected to the spotlights from there. You can access the headlight plug from within the engine bay.

Ta, except I'm planning/trying to replace the existing headlight globes with the copper STEDI LEDs, which I think is a different exercise.

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Ta, except I'm planning/trying to replace the existing headlight globes with the copper STEDI LEDs, which I think is a different exercise.

Headlight trigger is the same no matter what globe