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Sounds like what was happening with mine, replaced the sensors and reset the heights with autologic and the improvement was instant.
The way I see it all this dicking around is not worth the hassle especially when you live 200 km away from the workshop like we do. As far as I was concerned I just wanted them to change the bloody things and then take it from there.
In the UK height sensors were being replaced on the side of the road on earlier vehicles because so many failed.
Yes I bring it in today WednesdayQuote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Update:
Seems to be fixed now, due to the sensor playing up before the leveling system was out of whack and a re-set and software hight adjustment seems to have fixed it now
Re the Llams problems being experienced with some kits fitted by DPL, I spotted today that when they fit the grey connector they push against the wires rather than the shell itself which flattens the wires where they exit the back of the connector. I had noticed this on some returned looms but hadn't tweaked to the possibility that this might be the cause. I fitted a new loom to a vehicle that previously had 2 different new but "faulty" looms fitted on successive days, with the suspension system and Llams now working perfectly after the roughest test that could be produced. I will now endeavour to prove that bending the wires in this manner can lead to loss of contact. Also, the particular connector has a 5-6 mm overlap of the sockets and pins and the shell is a very good fit to the ecu so no shortcomings in that area. DPL will modify their fitting procedure and see if it overcomes their problems.
The style of the connector that LR has fitted requires the sockets in the connector to be free to float in their housings in the shell to align properly with the pins in the ecu. Many early problems were due to poor crimping of wires to sockets whereby the back end of the sockets became distorted which prevented them from floating. Unnecessarily thick wires probably don't help because they stay flattened which prevents the sockets from moving freely and generally impose too much control on the socket's ability to move. The wire size for this connector was reduced some time ago to help reduce the incidence of poor crimping but are still much thicker than what the D3/4/RRS use and the Vogue uses even thinner wires so further changes will be made.
This is getting a tad monotonous but the connection at the suspension ecu seems not to be a current issue. With a real ecu connector socket fitted to my test jig, it is not possible to fault the connection by pulling, pushing, wriggling or flattening the wires with either the "faulty" loom removed from a D3 yesterday or from a new loom with unmodified sockets. I've reverted to suspecting the connector that joins to the original connector because most of its pins are shorter than they should be, for which a cable tie is now supplied which must be tight enough to prevent the connectors from starting to separate.
Edit: I have concluded that the cable tie needs to be near the long end of the connector and suggest it is placed between the end pair that includes the thicker black wire and the next inner pair. Fitting the cable tie at the clip can still allow the long end of the connectors to be parted enough to loose contact on the outer pins.