D3 - engine jammed on a highway

Rich, I wish I had a friend like you, but I don't :(
I am a technical guy, but I've got no experience with cars unfortunately. It doesn't smell right here indeed, but I can't do much but to research online for cheaper quotes. I had no chance to learn about LR, only having it for a 1 day. Shame.

As in regards to manual attempt to start the engine, I believe they did so, according to the report in the beginning of this thread

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Tried to manually turn engine by breaker bar and socket but unable to do so. Internal failure inside engine with probable crank and conrod damage.

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As per service level, an ignorant consumer gets ripped off everywhere I guess. I got a quote variance of almost 200% talking to different services and parts sellers. I'd encourage to use media channels to highlight all the problems. Businesses like that deserve reputation damage.

Surely putting a endoscope up the sump plug hole will show any issues with the crankshaft with no disassembly required.

Garry

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Originally Posted by technoplague

Rich, I wish I had a friend like you, but I don't :(
I am a technical guy, but I've got no experience with cars unfortunately. It doesn't smell right here indeed, but I can't do much but to research online for cheaper quotes. I had no chance to learn about LR, only having it for a 1 day. Shame.

As in regards to manual attempt to start the engine, I believe they did so, according to the report in the beginning of this thread


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I agree with the advice to tow the car elsewhere - e.g. graeme cooper.

The suggestion was that the starter may have failed and jammed the engine (unlikely). If it is the case however, their attempts to manually turn the engine over wouldn't have worked if they had not removed the jammed starter.

The jammed starter theory has some merrit. When the starter motor failed on my D4 it jammed and burnt out but at least it wasn't engaged with the engine at the time. However, the only symptoms leading up to the failure were that the engine was slightly sluggish to turn over, which I interpretted at the time as a failing battery.

I never got the chance to look into the battery or charging system as the starter just failed without warning at a shopping centre and left my wife stranded. There was nothing wrong with the battery, it was all in the starter.

I can immagine that the previous owner may have had this type of symptom and started replacing bits to solve it, when it was the starter all along.

Bob

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

If it is the case however, their attempts to manually turn the engine over wouldn't have worked if they had not removed the jammed starter.

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Lets assume for the moment that the crankshaft bearings had failed surely the bearing would have just been flogged out but the crankshaft still able to turn even if it runs in the bearing caps and block material. I don't see hoiw the crank would break unless already damaged - yes the crank will have gouges in it etc but would still turn. So even if the bearings had failed wouldn't the crank still be able to be turned manually?

Just trying to get my head around the failure process.

Garry

How many kms out of Melbourne did you actually get ie where did you break down?

Guessing. Faulty injector draining electrical current and also over fueling leading to piston damage/seize?

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Originally Posted by workingonit

How many kms out of Melbourne did you actually get ie where did you break down?

Guessing. Faulty injector draining electrical current and also over fueling leading to piston damage/seize?

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700km. I got a final verdict from the mechanic. It seems like they are annoyed by my constant queries that I literally copy&paste from this forum. I've booked accredited oil inspection for 60$ (screw these guys who gave $700 quote).

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Yes we did remove the starter motor from the engine just to double check that this was not causing the issue.

The engine is jammed solid and upon visual inspection the front of the crank pulley is not sitting straight with timing cover housing.
Which tells us that it is a terminal engine bottom end failure.

With over 12 years’ experience myself and my technician Landrover trained with over 4 years’ experience rest assured Your engine is non-repairable,
If you would like a second opinion I can send the vehicle anywhere you like.

I certainly can send you a sample of the engine oil but it won’t be sent until Monday morning as mail has been done for today.

As you may or not be aware we service and repair on average over 10 landrover and jaguar vehicles daily and at present I am only operating
With one hoist due your vehicle being on the other hoist.

If you would like to proceed with the repair I really need to know as soon as possible as I am cancelling work due to only having one hoist and I really need to move your vehicle off that hoist so I can keep my second technician working on other customers vehicles.

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The crank pulley not sitting straight is certainly a bad sign. Surprised she didn't throw a leg outta bed if it was that bad and I can't believe the car just stopped with no forewarning. Ask for him to show you that pulley. I'm still wondering about this electrical issue. A lot of us have had alternator failures, you'll mostly get a battery (charge) light, burning smell, loud whirring.

Who serviced the engine prior to you purchasing the car?

You may now need to prove that they used incorrect oil. There is plenty of documentation out there from LR stating 'there is to be no deviation from 5w30 oil' in the TDV6. If you can prove the oil in there is not 5w30, you have a legal comeback.

What quotes are you getting for a new engine, out of interest?

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Originally Posted by Rich84

The crank pulley not sitting straight is certainly a bad sign. Surprised she didn't throw a leg outta bed if it was that bad and I can't believe the car just stopped with no forewarning. Ask for him to show you that pulley. I'm still wondering about this electrical issue. A lot of us have had alternator failures, you'll mostly get a battery (charge) light, burning smell, loud whirring.

Who serviced the engine prior to you purchasing the car?

You may now need to prove that they used incorrect oil. There is plenty of documentation out there from LR stating 'there is to be no deviation from 5w30 oil' in the TDV6. If you can prove the oil in there is not 5w30, you have a legal comeback.

What quotes are you getting for a new engine, out of interest?

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Rich, the oil was 5W/40 Castrol Magnatec. New factory long engine would cost me 10k. I've organized oil inspection, but from they've said in the LAB, it is unlikely that the oil will be the cause, given the fact that car has done around 1k km after oil service. I am still going ahead with this inspection, as it's cheap and doesn't hurt doing.

So if there were no stange smells or noises over that time, ie about 6 hours, I would think the vehicle was running fine. In which case there was a sudden change in something to stop the engine. To me it is still sounding more like a suddenly rotated crank bearing cutting off oil supply - a recognised problem (wish government was more proactive in consumer protection other than just passing laws and recommending you pay a lawyer to enforce it, class action groan) - see the likes of www.landroverhell. That's why I asked the thread if anyone has bothered to get their bearings tabbed as a pre-emptive measure. I know most won't consider it, unless they are happy to swing spanners. But the knowledge that it might be able to be done gives people food for thought.

In regard to the wrong oil (not my first choice as cause), do others know what the symptoms actually are? Can incorrect oil, 20/50 as discussed, actually seize an engine? I can appreciate the need to run lower viscosity range due to higher tolerances in the engine. My guess would be a gradual loss of power over the time the engine takes to warm everything up and oil to reach max viscosity. But then techno is new to the feel of the vehicle.