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I'm carrying a Jack similar to Meccles in my car 4000 kg, ( under the seat) for years on its side, no plastic bag, just wrapped in old towel to stop it banging too much. It doesn't leak only a few drops once in awhile. The old one leaked a bit but it was 20 years old. You can easily top them up with ATF if need be. cheers Simmo. 12,000 kg is a big jack maybe a bit too big. Sissor jack is OK as long as the vehicle is secure. Versatile as well because it's so compact.
1995 def 110
I forgot to mention that we did get a flat on one of the tracks at Mitta Mitta, we used the D2 jack in combination with a trolley jack(carried in the Amarok) D2 jack under the lower control arm, trolley jack under the chassis(mainly for stability)
Seemed to work well, definately need two jacks though, one jack would be a pain, especially on a hill or uneven ground, Land Rover where definately not thinking about getting a flat off road when the jack was put in the car, have already twisted the scissor jack to the point where it's useless.
Our second jack for when we are not travelling with Ness in the Rok, is the D3 bottle jack(wind up type) bit of a pain to use but it will do till we find a small enough trolley jack as a second jack.
Baz.
Baz, I've read your posts before on using a jack under the lower control arms. If I recall correctly, you can only put them under the front arms, and you possibly need to pull the fuse for the EAS is that right? Where exactly do you place the jack under the control arm? What shape should the jack head be if you use this approach? I presume you wouldn't want to use an OEM scissor jack at that location because of the locator pin in the jack head would damage the control arm. Thoughts?Quote:
Originally Posted by Redback
Have never pulled any fuse and the D2 jack has a curved end, similar to the sprinter jack, it goes where the is a hole in the control arm.Quote:
Originally Posted by BSM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psdeaea41e.jpg
And can you do this also on the rear control arm?Quote:
Originally Posted by Redback
I would assume so, I have no problem jacking from the control arm, it is actually easier on the air suspension models I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by BSM
Test it out, best way to know for sure, also I'm pretty sure the jacking point for the coil D3 is the control arm, someone with a coil D3 may confirm this, I'm going on memory from when we changed a flat on his coil D3 and one of the reasons we bought a D3 bottle jack, which is now our second jack.
Baz.
The D3 Coil suspension has a lug/hook type arrangement that is welded to the front & rear control arms. The lug aligns with the top edge of the control arm, therefore you have the thickness of the control arm extra in height to fit the jack under.
Cheers, Murray
I do.....when I change from road rubber to my off-road/touring rubber.Quote:
Originally Posted by BSM
Brett....
I am referring here to the air suspension LR3, but for the front, I have a bottle jack similar to the jpg above but without the curved top bit - just a half inch diameter post so to speak. I set it in that dimple that is visible in the jpg behind the jack. It sits nicely there.Quote:
Originally Posted by BSM
I do however have a trolley jack under the frame to the rear of the wheel to carry the main load so the bottle jack is just lifting the A arm.
Regarding the rear, pretty much the same; trolley jack lifting on the frame and the bottle jack under the A arm. The problem however is that there is not the nice dimple on the underside of the rear A arm so I just pick a jacking point but it is not as elegant as with the front.
The advantage of lifting under the A arm is that the vehicle does not have to be elevated very high, and yes, I usually set my 3 at off road height to provide increased tyre removal clearance due to the reduced amount of jacking needed.