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Thread: Beadbreaker question

  1. #11
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    use a bead cheater , cant stop it, got to be carful of scratches though




    connock

  2. #12
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    That ( beadcheater) is the one I have had since 1982 or so.

    I reckon they are fine with a steel rim but IMHO would destroy an alloy rim.
    You have to whack it under the rim with a hammer.
    Has anyone succesfully used one on an alloy rim?
    Regards Philip A

  3. #13
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    From reading the threads on here and else where it appears the LR tyres/rims are particularly difficult to break and reset the bead. They make special mention of this on the R&R beadbreaker site. Is this true.

    Would a normal 12 volt compressor be able to put the tyre on over the bead as you do with others.


    Rich

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbowner View Post
    From reading the threads on here and else where it appears the LR tyres/rims are particularly difficult to break and reset the bead. They make special mention of this on the R&R beadbreaker site. Is this true.

    Would a normal 12 volt compressor be able to put the tyre on over the bead as you do with others.


    Rich
    Yes breaking the bead is VERY difficult, and needs to be started at the valve and nowhere else, even then it is still very hard to do, as long as you hard a very good compressor, re-setting the bead is not as bad, lots of soap and a good compressor.

    As I have said, I have done it, I did try a few things before going to the Beadbreaker to finally breaking the bead and re-setting the bead was OK from memory, the car was a 2005 RRS with 18" or 19" rims, can't remember.

    Your other option would be to buy steel rims for touring, we have a couple of options when we go touring, our camper has the same size as the car and we always travel with a second vehicle, which just so happens to have the same stud pattern as our car and camper, that vehicle also a second spare.

    And another option is GOE Compotive 18" rims, gghaggis is the best person to talk about those rims though, re getting tyres off and on those.

    This one


    Result
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  5. #15
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    I read the experience of others with interest. I have the R&R beadbreaker. It is the heavy duty version and I use it with the Hub adaptor on 19in rims. I also use the rim protectors sold by the same supplier. The hub adaptor is essential. Note the "superfoot" in pictures posted by others is not required and does not fit on the heavy duty unit.

    It is NOT difficult to break the bead at all. The device is very powerful (mechanical advantage). Properly lubricated as per the instructions and video the bead can be broken with two fingers turning the spanner. Yes I know that the bead is shallow 100mm either side of the valve and this is the recommended place to initially break the bead, but this device can break the bead anywhere. It does not apply force to the rim and so I don't see why others are concerned about damage. The rim protectors are used with the tyre levers and when putting the tyre back on.

    Once the bead is broken all the way around the wheel there is some effort required to get the tyre off the wheel. This does not involve the bead breaker and is done with the tyre levers.

    The R&R unit really comes into its own when you want to put the tyre back onto the wheel. It makes a difficult job quite easy. The inventor designed it to do both jobs and take the load off his back. No rubber mallet required and no damage to the tyre bead. I have an ARB compressor to blow the tyre back onto the bead.

    It costs more, but if you want to work on LR 19 in rims I don't think there is any other device in the same league. There are videos on the web and the unit is supplied with a DVD showing how it works.

    Here is a Pic of mine.



    19 Disco HSE wheel with bead broken and showing the R&R heavy duty bead breaker (with hub adaptor). The wheel is sitting on my tailgate for easy access.
    Last edited by Fred Nerk; 26th November 2013 at 07:45 PM. Reason: To add photo and correct grammar

  6. #16
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    After I posted above I checked the R and R site.

    The pictures on the site are of a older version and mine is much improved. The superfoot is not required nor will it fit. The Zero offset rim rod adaptor and the Alloy rim rover adaptor kit are not recommended. The Hub adaptor has made those components redundant. I feel confident that the people who have had difficulties in the past must have been using the older model.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Nerk View Post
    After I posted above I checked the R and R site.

    The pictures on the site are of a older version and mine is much improved. The superfoot is not required nor will it fit. The Zero offset rim rod adaptor and the Alloy rim rover adaptor kit are not recommended. The Hub adaptor has made those components redundant. I feel confident that the people who have had difficulties in the past must have been using the older model.
    Fred,
    I have contacted R&R and can confirm what you say about the zero offset adaptor. I have one of those so now for show only.

    I do not have the heavy duty one, I believe, and the superfoot does fit it, I have used it on smaller tyres as a test. I was told this should be ok.

    My unit does not cater for 19" tyres but I can upgrade it easily.

    As you say the hub adaptor is the key. When I contacted them I was told that it will be a necessary bit for most tyres.
    Adrian is upgrading the site as the special section for land rovers is out of date.
    The videos you mention are good though.

    Thanks for the info
    Ri hard

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Nerk View Post
    After I posted above I checked the R and R site.

    The pictures on the site are of a older version and mine is much improved. The superfoot is not required nor will it fit. The Zero offset rim rod adaptor and the Alloy rim rover adaptor kit are not recommended. The Hub adaptor has made those components redundant. I feel confident that the people who have had difficulties in the past must have been using the older model.

    Excellent stuff Fred, yes I have the older unit and as with Richard mine is not the heavy duty unit, looks like a new unit with the hub adapter is on the cards.

    Thanks Fred,

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    Excellent stuff Fred, yes I have the older unit and as with Richard mine is not the heavy duty unit, looks like a new unit with the hub adapter is on the cards.

    Thanks Fred,

    Baz.
    Baz
    I asked whether my unit would be ok with the hub adapter and was told it was
    So may not need a new heavy duty unit
    You may want to confirm by contacting them

    Richard

  10. #20
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    I agree. The hub adaptor should work with the previous unit. You may need the superfoot to give sufficient movement of the foot to break the bead. You should ask Adrian O'Neill. (at r and r / Safari) He is very helpful and wants the product to work for his customers.

    If you order the hub adaptor, make sure you know your stud bolt size so that you are supplied with the correct bolts to suit your wheel nuts. (Adrian can help). Your wheel nuts are used to secure the adaptor to your wheel.

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