Coolant outlet housing failure

$32 O-ring, wow thats some o-ring

The rule of thumb was to replace at belt replacement time ~7 yr cause everything is pulled apart. Can do new water pump and change coolant also.

My question is regarding the plastic inlet on the side of the 2.7 block. I assume the 3.0 is similar.

You never hear of this one being replaced.

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Originally Posted by Mickyg

$32 O-ring, wow thats some o-ring

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That’s not right. Firstly they come with the o-rings when you buy the unit, but I bought the two o-rings additionally (didn’t know they were included) when I bought mine and they were nothing like that price.

Just replace it each time the cam belt is done is good enough.

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

TI bought the two o-rings additionally (didn’t know they were included) when I bought mine

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You too huh?

Maybe we need to start a "surplus parts" pool.

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Originally Posted by BradC

You too huh?

Maybe we need to start a "surplus parts" pool.

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Good news is I’ll use them when I remove it to replace the “probably not leaking oil cooler”. Silver lining

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Originally Posted by Nomad9

Hi TDV6,
As Ean mentioned I was looking at getting an aluminium one cast up, I know a small manufacturing company local to where I work. They have one of those 3D scanners that create wax models for the lost wax process of casting. The shape and internal porting was to complex, it just became to hard so I left it. The cost would also have been prohibitive.
When mine started to leak my first indication that something was wrong was the smell of hot coolant. The coolant was running into the V and slowly evaporating, my second indicator was a leak from the front of the gearbox of coolant. The V was full and the coolant had started to trickle down the back of the engine. I had slight coolant usage but couldn't find the leak. The V can hold about 2 litres of coolant before it starts to drip out by the way.
The way I checked was to get about 2 m of 8mm clear plastic tubing and feed one end past the oil filter into the bottom of the V and suck, after a short period of time the red fluid came into view, by the way it tastes horrible...........
I modified a pair of wire cutters shaping the ends like hooks to get the EGR pipe clips on and off.

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Try these next time
https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9...4574835bc7.png Might need deeper depth than these

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

The rule of thumb was to replace at belt replacement time ~7 yr cause everything is pulled apart. Can do new water pump and change coolant also.

My question is regarding the plastic inlet on the side of the 2.7 block. I assume the 3.0 is similar.

You never hear of this one being replaced.

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I had to change mine, it developed a very slow leak through the oring.

I should add was not long after a coolant change, I specially bought the genuine coolant, I've never had success with castrol coolant staying in anything, especially the old green, I spoke to product support at castrol and they said this wasn't the same. It was, it now has the correct spec of Nulon coolant in it, no more leaks, after that I'll probably put the old faithful caterpillar elc coolant in it, that stuff never lets you down, isn't quite the right color, more red then orange, so I'll change the header tank at the same time so I don't have that orange stain in thare.
Also if your flushing, Cummins make a product called restore plus. It's simply the best flush you can buy, takes a fair bit of water to get it all out after you have run it through the system but worth it

Replace plastic outlet with new genuine product, when coolant is replaced,as per service schedule.

Use only genuine coolant.

Job done,nothing to worry about,until next time.