My belts looked exactly the same as the new belts, no sign of any difference at all!
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My belts looked exactly the same as the new belts, no sign of any difference at all!
Its a casting difference...
Early Casting:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/02/411.jpg
New Casting:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/02/412.jpg
Notice the additional webbing...
(Images from LR Automotive site: TdV6 Timing Belt)
Yep - that's what I'm expecting to have fitted... I'll be checking the part numbers on the account when I pick it up.
cheers
My car will be due for this service later this year. So I have been making enquiries. Been told that my car (MY 2008, but build Nov 2007) may or may not have the new style part.
One Independent will not do the job (if it is the old part) without replacing the cover. Another independent says only recommend replacement if there is already a specific issue.
Price difference just belts v belts and pump housing is around $600.
Cheers
Mike
part no. is LR013487, plus they will have wanted to replace the front main seal and bolt.
Funny enough I've spent some time looking for similar failures on Ford, Jag and PSA vehicles and it doesn't seem to be a problem on those. The pump itself looks identical in the PSA 2.7 as the original pump on our LRs.
I would think theirs would be the same as ours, as the rest of the engine is manufactured in the same plant (Dagenham, UK). The replacement pump also has FoMoCo cast into it.
Just funny that it's an issue on LRs and not on the others... I don't understand why there'd be any more load on that particular part.
Unless perhaps since the engine constantly has to work harder, the HPFP is also working harder, which is putting more strain over the same period on the tensioner mounting.
Either way, very happy I replaced mine... Worth the peace of mind. FWIW my original pump had no fractures of any type and the internal gears had only slight polishing around the gear tips. Otherwise all the machine marks were still there. Very impressive for 190,000km - yes I did mine late - had to wait 3 months for my pump and did 20K in that time!
Just been contacted by MLR and they have the correct part and will be fitting it this afternoon - couldn't ask for better service...a very quick follow up to my e-mails and phone calls :) I'm happy so far.
cheers
Don't fret, only one now available is the upgraded one, strangely though it is the same part number as the old one IIRC.
Did one last week, a bit of a mission but nothing too strenuous. As said worst part (Apart from that damn fuel pump belt) was removing and refitting starter, and making the crank locking tool actually FIT....
Don't be scared, just leave yourself plenty of time.
JC
I take it your crank locking tool was made the exact size of the hole it's meant to fit in as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
I had to grind about .5mm off the radius with a die grinder to make mine fit. Seems like a ridiculous oversight!
With my old Freelander, old drill bits of the right size could be used as the cam and crank locking tools.
With the TDV6 do you need the correct tool or can something else be used. If you correct tool is needed where can you get it locally and how much are they?
Cheers
Garry
Paid about $160 for my set - Britpart - from Famous Four, but as I said I had to grind them down.
The crank lock tool uses the larger outer diameter to locate itself snugly into a hole just about where the starter motor fits, and the smaller inner pin/diameter to locate into a hole in the flywheel/flex plate. If you have a metal lathe that can do high tensile steel and a welder, there's no reason you couldn't replicate the tool yourself. As you said, you could easily use drillbits or screwdrivers for the cam locks.