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I keep reading this here and it's absolute BS !Quote:
Originally Posted by CaverD3
The best diesel additives use ester (synthetic) ashless lubricants !
As for adding two stroke, get a decent diesel additive such as Redlines RL2 which contains detergents as well as lubricants and has been tested and certified as an approved Cummins fuel additive.
Not just on here. I suspect it depends on which 2 stroke.
That synthetic is not 2 stroke. But should be better.
Umm,
Am getting a new Defender that will be parked up for several months at a time, i was going to add a marine antibacterial diesel agent, & fill the tanks to the brim to prevent condensation. am i on the right track?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaverD3
The point is that the best syn two stroke lubes are ashless ester based and mix easily, their solvency is at least as good as a mineral oil.
I suspect this old missive stems from the four stroke world where PAO's are the basis of most syn oils and usually need the additive package 'delivered' in a mineral oil or ester 'package' for best solvency with the base oils.
Redline basically uses their two stroke lube in their RL2/3 and 85Plus !
The Penrite TC-W3 that I use is a low ash, low smoke premium mineral oil, not synthetic.
The chemist that I spoke to prior to adding the 2 stroke to my fuel, advised that if I was going to use it for my intended purpose, to use a mineral oil.
BTW: The chemist was not from Penrite.
Cheers, Craig
AndyG
It is always a good move when leaving the car to ALWAYS fill the tank. This fills most of the air space and helps prevent condensation and as the fuel is slightly hygroscopic it will absorb same and then there will, after a while be then free water in the bottom of the tank.
This is then why an antibacterial is then necessary as the algae then forms a thick black scum which has sharp teeth and will eat a metal tank as well as blocking filters.
Having seen the results in aircraft fuel tanks I always use a fuel antibacterial and keep the tank full if left for a length of time.
Thanks,
I have a boat that takes 3,000 liters and has Gardner 6lx engines (2), and that's what I do there. Love those donks at full bore at 1,100 rpm:p:p
Jeez, I dunno how my TD5 lasted 320,000ks, must have been lucky:p
Still going strong last I heard!!
Baz.
Baz - it didn't run the same PSI as the HPFP in the Euro4 D3/D4/RRS. Mind you, after having FOUR of the buggers replaced under warranty, I might be just a bit gun shy!
Thanks to Sean for pointing out the previous posts - I couldn't spot them. Guys, this wasn't a troll, just a genuine query as to whether I should be using any of the proprietary products. Some interesting info here
http://fleetowner.com/site-files/fle...e%209-1-12.pdf
Haven't had a chance to go through it in detail
Trevor