Well there you go, who'd have thunk it. Wonder why they needed to do that?
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Hi Jon,
No I haven't even heard of the Disco4 site? Why aren't these people on this site? :-) I'll have a look.
I've made a few inquiries on this site, talked to a few Auto-Electricians and some Brissy based independents.
I'd sort of given up on it but after driving from Northern NSW late at night a few weeks ago ... admittedly I was tired ... I would really like to have Bi-Xenon on the new car.
Cheers Kev.
Hi Sniegy,
When I first started thinking about this and making some enquiries I was hoping along the lines Jon had stated, that the economy of scale principle would make the cars 'fitted for but not with' ... in other words wiring, etc would be identical until the very last few stages. Modular if you like.
I was hoping that with both cars on my driveway, I could swap over all hardware required to do the job. I hadn't banked on software issues and the possibility that the wiring loom issue may be more complex than just the last few inches being different, etc.
Anyway .... sounds like I need to dig deeper, while I still have both beasts :-)
Who are these people Sniegy ... LOL???
Cheers,
Kev.
Was the realignment of the fill-ins tricky and are they stable? From memory you were using shims of some sort around the fittings.
I'm considering doing something similar, albeit with uprated halogens for ease of use, as I've found the adaptive HIDs are pretty good, and I think I can dispense with driving lights.
I can confirm from 2010 wiring diagrams that the vehicle loom for the bi-xenon headamp assemblies is identical to the non-bi-xenon assemblies. It is only the adaptive lighting that requires extra wires and they are fitted to my 2010 D4 even though it does not adaptive lights. The AFS control module, mounted somewhere else in the vehicle (perhaps low on the passenger A-pillar judging by the wire lengths), probably isn't fitted to my vehicle though. I have even checked that there is power on the static cornering light circuits - just nothing inside the headlamp assemblies themselves.
Kev, just do it and get the CCF setting changed to stop them flashing on start-up.
I'd have to find my earlier posts but IIRC a 2-3mm spacer was required. Yes it was a bit fiddly getting access to the mounting screws from awkward angles but spent probably not more than half an hour for the first one and less for the other and was well worth the effort. They still only have a spacer under 1 upper screw rather than both but still OK.
The improvement in light from the HIDs is enormous, providing a wide band from verge to verge and adding to the light directly ahead.
DISCO4.COM - Index - the Disco3 site by any other name.
That makes more sense, thanks Graeme.
Cheers,
Jon
Thanks Graeme,
I'm at an impasse though. I don't have the knowledge or tools to do the job. Especially the CCF requirements. LR in the Brissy Valley were the only ones out of all the people I talked to that were willing 'to give it a TRY' but that was with a caveat that they couldn't guarantee that it would work :-(.
When are you next in Brisbane :-) LOL!!!
Kev.
Hi Graeme,
Just more musing....
If the looms are identical, and you have found power (albeit with nowhere to go) at the connector for the static cornering lights, is it not fairly likely that power is supplied with high beam selection to the circuit that runs the Bi-Xenon shutter, whether fitted or otherwise?
If so ... what does the actual CCF do?
Cheers,
Kev.