Spot on the money Paul.
Richard, your set up is fine. The suggestion of moving the Comfort Connection’s negative lead was only if it was on the cranking battery’s negative terminal.
Having it on the auxiliary battery’s negative terminal is perfect.
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Spot on the money Paul.
Richard, your set up is fine. The suggestion of moving the Comfort Connection’s negative lead was only if it was on the cranking battery’s negative terminal.
Having it on the auxiliary battery’s negative terminal is perfect.
PHEW!!! :).
Thanks guys.
Paul my set up will be the same as yours, traxide dual battery.
I probably could reach the studs but the aux battery negative post was definitely easier to do.
The set up seems to work as I charged the main battery via the white plug connection yesterday (I got the above done today). Both batteries got charged as expected.
Richard
My bad read,so you have the positive on the main battery,neg on aux.
That will be fine:D
I thought pos and neg were on Aux battery.
As Tim has said it is the neg on the main battery that you have to be careful with.
So you won't need my pic:D
Hi Franz and sorry, I missed your post.
Because my isolators remain on, in some cases, for years at a time, they continue to consume battery power, and even though this is quite low, they still draw power.
If the vehicle is used on a regular basis, as is the case with about 95% of the vehicles fitted with my isolators, then there is no issue.
If on the other hand, the vehicle is only used once a week, or less, which is commonplace in Europe, and becoming more common here, then the isolator just uses power for no reason.
Starting with the original program for the USI-160, where after the motor is turned off and once the common voltage drops below 12.6v, one of the two relays is turned off, to reduce energy use.
But the ABG-25, the DT90 and now all USI-160 isolators produced since December last year, all have an automatic Time-Out feature, where even if the voltage is above the 12.0v Cut-Out voltage, these isolators turn of after a pre-set time period, thus saving battery energy.
The SC80 does not yet have this feature, so if you do regularly leave your vehicle unused for weeks at a time, then by fitting a small switch in to the SC80’s negative wire, you can turn it on and off as needed.
Hi All
I bought the CTEK but could not source a S12 connector
I would be very grateful for some help
(1) I had no luck getting the 12S (white plug) connector in Melbourne, as these are European plugs. Even the LR dealer did not stock them. The Australian plugs are the 12N ones with a female centre pin instead of the male one in the 12S.
Does anyone know where to get one (S12) in Australia?
Or does anyone know which UK company to import them (S12) from?
(2) Someone said that he knocked out the middle pin of a 12N plug to make it fit. I tried to knock out the centre pin off my 12N plug, but it is very strongly fixed and would not budge unless I use enough force to break the plastic disc holding the pins.
Any tips on how to do this?
(3) Also I put my multimeter onto pins 3 and 4 of the white socket on the back of my car (disco 4 2.7 L) but it read 0 voltage. Does that mean that it is not connected to the battery?
Many thanks
GD-4
This may be what you're looking for.
DISCO3.CO.UK - Shop - Towing socket charger adapter - CTEK/Accumate/Optimate etc
Martin
So the 12S socket is the white one of the two which seem to be standard on oz spec cars? Therefore the disco3 towing socket charger adapter will definitely work for oz spec cars? Bit confused as some of the specs say d4 only comes with 12N electrics....
Hi,
The white one is the one to use on the D4.
When I got back and found the battery down a bit I charged it via connecting to the white plug. I used a plug I got from the UK site mentioned. I am sure you could easily make one for a lot less I was just a bit lazy.
Richard