Wizard
SubscriberI think my memory is correct - The conventional GVM upgrades usually comprise upgraded springs, shocks, and brake components. A GVM kit is tested and approved for an upgrade. This does cost in the region of $10000.00 per vehicle . A GVM upgrade can be simply lifting the overall GVM to the manufacturer maximum axle weights. The manufacturers generally have a GVM below the rated axle maximums. This can be why some GVM upgrades don't seem to offer a large increase in capacity. If the company developing the upgrade kit, wishes to push the envelope, and can get an engineer to sign off on the certification, the maximum axle weights are increased beyond the manufacturer maximums. This can be quite common on GVM upgrades seen in mine vehicles. There is a serious issue though, when taking this path. Once the manufacturer axle load maximums are exceeded, the company marketing the upgrade kit, is legally responsible ( as a secondary manufacturer ) if anything goes wrong. Axle breaks, causes accident, owner sues.
GVM kits are normally fitted before the first registration, but can be fitted later, it is just more awkward and more expensive. You have to have the vehicle inspected by an engineer. The engineer is effectively signing off that the vehicle has no non manufacturer components fitted that will impact on the GVM kit.
A final point. Once you have fitted a particular GVM kit, you are stuck with those exact components. As as already been indicated, the GVM kits are usually the same components you can buy off the shelf at your local suspension shop. The combination of components in the kit for a particular vehicle is the combination certified. You cannot fit a heavier coil or a different shock, because it takes your fancy.
Regardless of other LR models with higher GVM,s I think you can see that the only way the GVM on a D3/D4 is going to be increased, is by LR lifting it.
D4 2.7litre
A Keeper of the TGO
Yes it does, all suspension components are upgraded, including some others (xmembers etc)Originally Posted by jonesy63
Terry, with the upgraded suspension less all the armouring and sundries(engine bay extinguisher, intercom, lights, exhaust armoured glass etc) the payload would be a lot more than the 500KGs stated.
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
Wizard
SubscriberIt could be cheaper or more cost effective ( certainly more fuel efficient ) to reduce weight on a std D4. Anyone for carbon fibre or magnesium. ( or go on a diet )
Wizard
Lots of "speed holes"?
Wizard
SupporterGetting rid of the car's "balls" would be a good start, with probably no perceptible effect on anything!
Bob
Effect is perceptible - the NVH increases are noticeable - I had the rear ones jammed solid from being bogged (and then drying solid)
There is a damn good reason dampers are fitted, let's face it - the engineers don't go shoving that type of gear on where not needed to meet a purpose.
The design of these vehicles can transmit NVH quite remarkably without these measures in place.
The D4 has one of the better payload ratings already in its class... If needs require more than a trailer, or a larger class of vehicle (Iveco etc) should be considered.
ChatterBox
I'd be wary how much you strip off. My cousin prepares rally cars in Kenya, and was asked to do a Supercharged Sport. They dropped around 500 kg from the car and then couldn't get it to move - apparently the body-control computer shut it down! Don't know the exact details, but they had to add a fair bit back before the computer said "yes".
Cheers,
Gordon
Wizard
SupporterProbably correct Gordon but those of us with Kaymar rear bar, extra spare tyre on a steel rim, long range fuel tank, bull bar, Mitch Hitch and dual battery system could certainly remove a lot of weight without upsetting the body ECU!
I expect that in my D4 all of these extras would have a bigger detrimental effect on NVH than the removal of the car's "balls" would, in real life situations, although I don't want to find out. It is so good at 160,000km that I don't want to change anything.
The only unwanted noise in mine is a slight noise at the rear, which could be tailgate seals making a noise or something to do with the spare tyre on the Kaymar bar. I can't really hear it enough to track it down.
Bob
Master
SubscriberCan we stop talking about all the ball removing!
I'm starting to hear a shaking noise from the garage
Wizard
SubscriberI doubt it would be an issue in this case, as the objective is to enable more weight to be carried. It should be a transfer. Bullbar, roofrack, spare wheel, drawer set, and aux tank in, equivalent weight out.
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