Printable View
Now I would not consider my self a Disco guru, but I have had factory OEM flaps on all of my discos (3) and they all worked fine, I did do some super muddy work and they were more than fine and did not get ripped off when I reversed in heavy mud, but I mostly got them to stop stone chips as I drive on unsealed roads every day in country Vic.and it seems to work fine.
Firstly, welcome to the forum.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tylenol
The oem flaps aren't much good, but if you are going to take it off the bitumen you'll want something.
At the very least don't get them installed - they are very easy to fit yourself. Also they are usually cheaper from the UK, from someone like Duckworths.
So did I. On the harsher outback roads they are pretty much useless though. You should see my rear wheel arches. The front flaps just don't cover the back of the tyre properly. I miss the unpainted arches on the D3.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger
Cheers,
Jon
I looked at the OEM flaps and thought they were rubbish. My main concern was how hard the plastic was.
I ended up sourcing some on ebay from HK. Cost about $50 landed. You have to cut off some of the excess moulding for a tight fit but otherwise no big deal. They are also made of as more pliant material and seem less likely to crack or be shattered by stones.
I note comments about not being big enough so I may rivet some more plastic to the bottoms/sides if necessary.
I got the Chinese knock-off versions off eBay.
Look the same as LR's, only difference is that they're branded "LAND ROVEF".
About 80 bucks for the set.
Installed in 30 minutes.
Couldn't justify the stealership prices.
Agree that original or knockoff don't offer lots of protection.
In the process of fashioning a set similar to LandyAndy's. Again, purchased knockoff Defender style flaps from eBay to start the project.
same here !!;)
My OEM flaps have lasted 9 years (rear) and 4 years (front) - the rears are the big wide type which are really good and don't seem susceptible to much damage in my use, the fronts have copped it a few times on rocks and the current ones are both cracked from being whacked on things. They seem to catch a lot of rocks and mud, but it's hard to tell as my olde D3 doesn't have paint all over the sacrificial plastic parts ... :wasntme:
Just to round out my D4 mudflap install project, I installed some front mudflaps a few days ago. They are D1 front mudflaps, just a generic plain brand.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1424609603
They are fixed using two existing screws plus a bolt and another screw for good measure.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1424609603
Overall I'm happy with how the front and rear mudflaps have worked out, now for the next project....:D:D
Cheers,
On the weekend I did my own mudflaps, purchased 1sq metre of 5mm rubber and cut out my own, front and rear, now I have a Kaymar bar and Kaymar assume that all D3s and D4s come with mudflaps so there is a 100mm gap from the bar the the wheel arch, they do make a bracket to fill this gap, but at $450, I decided to make my own from 3mm alloy checker plate, just bent it to the same shape as the rear bar and bingo, no more gap, at a total cost of $0.00, rubber was $54 for a SQ metre.
I haven't quite finished them, just need to add one more attachment point on the rear flap at the bottom and they are done.
Front
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psztte4de5.jpg
Rear, with fill in.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Baz.
Looks good...
I did the same on Lara using 5mm urethane sheet.
Much harder wearing..
Fitted mine today! Similar to Chris_CJC TD5. If you have rear a/c then be wary of the drivers front where the two spit cleared lines are shown in the pic below. The a/c pipes are right behind this spot. My back ones need to be out and up 10mm, but I'll wait for these to get ripped off first. I'll change the bolts and screws to something better once they have a test run. Hopefully with no rear washers they will pull through the plastic panels rather than split/crack or rip them off.