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Found this extremely helpful post on replacing the lower control arms on this forum, thanks Ean
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...sion-arms.html
Also got a quote from Comet Automotive for $1230.25 using genuine parts and $1156.10 using OEM parts, both of which are considerable better quotes than the LR Dealer so I know who will be servicing the D4 in future.
Cheers Jaybee
D4 MY12
And that is why doing them on vehicle and replacing the bushes in situ is so much easier [emoji6]
No undoing drive shafts, no pulling brake callipers or hubs off...
Any suggestions for Melb metro workshops from experience with this issue?
Dealer also quoted close to $2K
Thanks
Guppy
Have a look around for a Specialist European Repair shop or a British Motors Specialist as they will have the experience and be able to get genuine parts. Otherwise, I'm sure there would be a number of good repair shops in Melbourne that could get the parts and do the job. After all, lots of people on this forum have done the work themselves.Quote:
Originally Posted by Guppy
Initially I had difficulty weaning myself from the LR Dealer but with the D4 now 4 years old and getting a quote from the Dealer of $1970 to replace the arms did it for me. The European Auto Specialist (in Brisbane) quote was $1230, big difference.
Cheers Jaybee
Gotta love the SA Metro dealer!!!
Cheaper than East Coast Indies [emoji41]
Picking up an old thread here as I've been chasing down a bit of a knock in the front for a little while now and want to replace the anti-roll (sway) bar mounting bushes.
Struggling to get at the top nut on the passenger side... Have a deep offset ring spanner but not quite deep enough.
Would anyone be able to tell me exactly where they were able to procure a deep offset wrench with which they actually did this job ? Unfortunately most places selling them don't actually specify the offset and trial and error is not how I'd like to do this.
Or is there another method to access that top nut ?
Thanks,
David
I undo the three diff mount bolts, then you can flex it out of the way on its rubber bush using a pry bar or something else, then I can get a normal spanner into the bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by l00kin4
Or a 24mm crow foot spanner end gets there as well, however hard to get to the required torque value. When I did mine, that bolt just went VFT.
Digging up an old thread here but I still have a persistent but inconsistent knock which I can feel through the steering although I'm not 100% it is in the steering.
It has gotten very gradually worse over time and persisted through having LCA bushes and ARB bushes replaced.
It is a clunky rattle that feels smaller than LCA bushes.
Doesn't necessarily manifest when going over bumps - occurs sometimes even on flat concrete in a carpark. Mostly only occurs when turning left.
So far I nor my indie have been able to replicate it.
Thinking lower steering column based on previous comments in this thread...
Open to any other suggestions.
Thanks,
David
When my car was new and still in factory warranty I had an occasional clunk driving around after cornering before I knew anything about LCAs at about 50,000kms. Under warranty LR replaced something in the steering column which fixed it. Assume was the lower uni joint. LCAs were done later around 90,000km for first time.
As well as being ready for 4th set of LCAs and probably all arms and air springs I now have a loud groan / creak evident when reversing at near full lock particularly if car has been sitting that I’m wondering what that could be? Steering arms all tight and new sway bar bushes and links.
I do have new in and out tie rods ready but there is absolutely no wobble in old ones except the ball joint movement.
Sharing one solution with a new question.