Reply With Quote^ what he said ! Particularly the use of LG oil.
Wizard
Hi Buzz,
After you have done your research you are best sticking to Lifeguard 6 unless you are planning to do a full flush. There are others trying other oils and being successful plus additives. if you are already showing signs of "trauma" I would just stick with what you know.
Before you attempt to change the filter / pan get a set of torx shaped allen keys from Bunnings, three or four of the screws are quite difficult to get to at one of the ends.
Automac Transmissions in Myaree have the Lifeguard 6 oil if you decide to go down that track. They conveniently sell the oil in 20L lots and won't decant, take your credit card. Or you could try Repco they sell it apparently I have never tried I found out after from this forum, Oh and take your RAC card they give members a discount.
Best of luck Buzz
Master
^ what he said ! Particularly the use of LG oil.
Master
Definitely use the LG6 oil. I tried a double flush with high quality full synthetic ATF (Dexron 6 spec) and the box did not like it at all. Was smooth to start with, but after about 50k it was shifting harder and the torque converter was making a squawk noise when changing gears.
I changed back to LG6 quick smart. Since then the box has been pretty good, but still has the shudder and in certain conditions I get slip too.
So I guess it's time for a new converter...
Ok you have convinced me, ill use the LG6.
Ill let you know haw i get on.
Thanks
Chris
Hi All
Started early, drained the sump and re-filled with lg6 took off the oil cooler feed pipe to the radiator and ran for 10 seconds. Filled a plastic bottle with 1.2L toped up the gearbox and repeated three more times until the oil was noticeably cleaner.
Removed the old sump cut the filter, cleaned the gearbox seal and installed new filter, gasket and metal sump. Filled with oil then followed ZF procedure for topping up. Ran up to 30 degrees drips came out tightened filler plug.
Went for a run with no great improvement.
Maybe the hunting is a little better but I’m not convinced.
Rumble/ripple strip noise is worse and a lot more noticeable.
I’m now toying with the idea of draining the sump again and freshening up with what I have left in oil maybe 8L repeating the process until I have used up the oil.
Let me know what you think.
Time for a beer now to drown my sorrows.
Admin
On a slightly different tack, when you had it remapped do you know if they checked the injectors to make sure they are flowing within the LR specified range?
Cheers,
Terry
D1 V8 (Gone)D2a HSE V8 (Gone)D3 HSE TDV6 (Unfortunately Gone)D4 V8
Wizard
Hi Buzz,
When I did mine it was better after the clean but not brilliant, over the next 500 klms things sort of settled out a bit. I would get some klms under your belt in the next week or so and see how you go. Is it any better in manual mode?
Master
A Dr Tranny user might come along and share their experiences ?! Dunno if that may help.
One comment I'd make is that the ZF procedure for any gearbox work (eg. fluid change) includes reset gearbox adaption (reset ecu). Don't know if this would make a difference, but there it is.
Master
Sounds like you might need to look at replacing your torque converter now. Dr Tranny improved mine for a little bit, but the concensus is, once the damage to the TC lockup clutch friction lining is done, it's done. If the box is shifting ok, a new TC should be all you need to get back driving nicely.Originally Posted by Buzz
I was just quoted $1100 for TC supply only or $2300 installed by TRS in Lonsdale. It's a common enough issue that they keep the converters in stock.
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