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Ok, so it's primarily gas involved, and I imagine aDefender could be worse than most. I assumed (!) it was spike related.
Now to buy a quality set, and yes I know you can make your own out of heavy cable.
Matson look like a good brand after a look around?
It can be jump started.
Just read the owners manual and follow the clear instructions !!!
This is no different from most other modern vehicles which now have many ECUs which can be damaged by electrical spikes.
There's more to safely starting a modern electronic vehicle from a donor vehicle than just using a cable connection procedure that minimizes the risk of a battery explosion, beginning with the donor vehicle's engine should not be running when the leads are connected. Ideally the donor battery and the jumper leads including clamps can provide enough current without the donor vehicle's engine running. If not possible then steps must be taken to reduce as far as possible the current flow at the time the first (last-fitted) earth clamp is removed, including switching off the donor vehicle's engine and the recipient vehicle engine only idling, with all accessories switched off on both vehicles.
I haven't got 1 to sell YET, still got the D1 and D2 though, I was just asking the question as it seemed not as simple as 1 might think....Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
Another helpful and insightful post from Pat, as always .....
Well you will go and make ridiculous statements without any factual basis. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by discomatt69
The problems being described with jump starting on here are common in at least some way or other to ALL vehicles out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by discomatt69
For example - sparking across the terminals : I used to own a Ford F100 with a Chev V8 diesel in it. About as uncomplicated as you could get, with no electronics at all in it. One day I was hooking it up to jump start it - had a brain fart and hooked up directly to the battery terminals, first the positive, and then the negative. As soon as I hooked up the negative - the battery exploded in my face - I was leaning right over the top of it at the time. It wasn't a small battery either, from memory, N70Z or similar.
Fortunately I was wearing sunglasses and got nothing in my eyes. Also fortunately, the wife was nearby with a bucket of water as she was watering some plants in the garden - the contents of the bucket got doused over my head straight away.
As to incorrect procedures when connecting up to jump start a battery causing problems to the electronics in modern vehicles - this is nothing new and is by no means exclusive to any model of Land Rover. I've seen a Prado go home on a tilt tray for exactly these reasons.
Probably the best way to explain the basic points of how to do it correctly is Graeme's post above.
Feel sorry for the fellow LR lw e
Feel sorry for fellow LR owner's troubles but bottom line is they took an old starting battery out in the desert which is a bad idea in any vehicle including Toyotas. I remember being at Dalhousie Springs and being very happy to have a spare battery in case my new one failed.
Sent from my GT-I8730T using AULRO mobile app
This was the post that got me concerned, not the OP re the disco in the outback, although that is also a concern...Quote:
Originally Posted by AnD3rew
don't think my post was that outrageous?
I can only surmise that all machinery with electronics, need some form of zap/surge protection, like https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/0...2-24v-ma1512az. , maybe it was not used. But I will be buying a quality product like Matson, not exactly sure why, but it seems to be good insurance.
I also like to install surge protection after the change over switch between a genset and public power.