Mitch Hitch

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Originally Posted by matti4556

Fitting kit = 4x bolts and nuts, 4x washers and a taper lock bush for $121. Holy crap Batman! :o:o website shows you've sold "thousands" so I would have thought economies of scale should be reflected in your pricing. Surely you've got boxes of bulk bolts in your stock room by now? Or am I missing something here?

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Try purchasing original bolts for Rhino Rack gear. $7.00 for one 12mm bolt!!! And they have scale

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MitchellBros4x4

Hi Neil,

Thanks for your note, happy to help however I can.

We've seen this a few times before, not often though.

There's a few possible causes.

• Taper lock bush not centered - This has been the most common cause of misalignment, double check and report back.
• Recovery eyelet casting not installed square on the vehicle - Not as common but we have seen casting up to 5mm out of square, they must have multiple castings and they obviously differ.
• Hitch not assembled properly - Not likely in current generation batches, our jig has been thoroughly tested and re-tested.

We'd be happy to assist with the fitment if you're local, free of charge.

If you confirm these items are absolutely perfect, please give me a call in the office.....

02 9905 4764

Aaron Mitchell

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Thanks Aaron,
I removed and checked as per your comments and what do you know, it appears the tow eye is actually a few mm to the left of centre (when measured against the metal plate enclosure that surrounds it) and I also had the bush a couple of mm to the left. Re-centred the bush and once torqued up properly (much more than I had tightened to) it is now centred to my satisfaction. Sometimes I get a little too particular. Once again thanks for a great product.

That made me go and check mine Mungus and it's offset to the left also.

I may take the trouble to have a look one day and investigate if the D4 recovery hook offset was a carryover from the D3. :D

Installed my second Mitch Hitch today without too many issues.
However, one thing I found very useful this time was to temporarily remove the 12S (white) trailer plug wiring loom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/01/891.jpg

This allows plenty of room to install and torque the main hitch bolt. The loom is easy to remove but one of the plastic plugs that holds it to the 12N (black) loom is right above the body weights and I found it tricky to undo, with some skin scraped off my hand. The body weight is visible to the right in this photo.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/01/892.jpg

Plug removed at the other end of the loom....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/01/893.jpg


I've put the loom back in place with a couple of zip ties and will do this again when the hitch needs to be re-torqued after its first towing duty. I found this method much easier than wrestling with the trailer plug unscrewed but still insitu. Letting the spare wheel down to ground also helps with access to the loom.

Regards,
Scott
PS .... thanks to strydes in this thread for the inspiration:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...g-removal.html
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