When the scanguage said my engine temp was 107-8 was when the fan went into overdrive, back down to 104-5 and it was normal fan noise. I did not notice any change in the LR dash temp guage.
Ryall
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When the scanguage said my engine temp was 107-8 was when the fan went into overdrive, back down to 104-5 and it was normal fan noise. I did not notice any change in the LR dash temp guage.
Ryall
Hi Winaje,
There is a very specific coolant filling procedure, fill system, bleed, run at idle for 5 mins, run at 3000 rpm for one minute bleed, run at idle for five mins, run engine at 3000 rpm for 1 minute, return engine to idle for 1 min switch engine off and allow to cool, check coolant level. From memory it is something like that, the procedure is on one of those disc manuals or TOPIX if you want to clarify.
Had a chat with MLR, and basically no solution. Yes I could flush the coolant, I could do the transmission oil, I could replace the battery etc, but understandably I won't know if anything works till I next tow in those conditions - unlikely to be until next summer now. No suggestion of even bringing it in to the workshop for a look over tho (warranty expired 2-3 weeks back).
I might get the coolant done anyways, three years untouched seems a bit long to me, and just keep my eye on it. (and plug in a fault reader)
What have you got fitted to the nose of the vehicle that interrupts airflow?
Anything?
Does your car still make a roaring noise from the fan when first started up? This is the system testing the fan's electronic over-ride. If you don't hear this, your problem may be that the pcm circuit to the fan is faulty. As the cooling system has quite a large capacity to dump excess heat, the only time you'd notice a problem is towing or steep sand dune work. All other times the viscous coupling is enough to keep the temperature under control.
Had this happen to me, and found a pin in the multi-pin connector was not making contact.
Cheers,
Gordon