You can mention that. Its probably also worth mentioning that it doesn't make much difference whether they are open or closed. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by VladTepes
Cheers,
Jon
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You can mention that. Its probably also worth mentioning that it doesn't make much difference whether they are open or closed. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by VladTepes
Cheers,
Jon
"Turn your interior lights off automatic so they don't keep coming on when a door is opened."
Ive never figured out how to do that! Gives me the irrits.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesH
On my 07 D3 you just have to hold down the interior light button (near the rear view mirror) for about 5 seconds. The lights give a quick flash and then they are 'off' even when doors are opened. The reverse will turn them back on to automatic.
Cheers,
Matt
:lol2: Touche !Quote:
Originally Posted by jon3950
Its in the secret book in the glovebox :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesH
Push and hold light switch for ~5 seconds
Do it again to return to normal operations
would you mind letting us know where you sourced the LED's? I'm keen to do this myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by mijango
Luke
TRODGOLITE:pQuote:
Originally Posted by VladTepes
:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew
Some interesting discussion both here and in this recent post which I found v useful http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=212945
A few people have mentioned that leaving the key in the car (my wife is v trusting!) while camped up causes the "low battery start car now" message. Guilty as charged, so that should be an easy fix next time.
As should the 5s hold for deactivating the interior lights, and also turning off the screen before shutting down the car.
I should also add that I took my car into Graeme Coopers yesterday in St Peters who I rate v highly (unlike a certain LR specialist in brookvale which is 1km down the road from me but that's another story). It went in as the car also went into limp mode while towing and apparently there were injector faults and memory issues. Coopers feeling was that the low voltage may be related, but either way they patched both the engine and transmission with latest software updates from LR in the UK. Side point: it drives superbly now 😃😝
Coopers also felt that a DC-DC charger is a better setup than Traxide's for the D4s that have the BAttery Mgt System (BMS). Their reasoning being that the BMS views it as another electrical draw which is comprehendible to the system, as opposed to simply bolting on another battery with an isolator (though I think it's a bit more than just that). While I got a bit out of my technical depth I did mention how many positive comments I'd read on the Traxide kit on both this and disco3.co.uk
In summary I feel I've learned a lot and will see what happens on our Australia Day camping trip (back to the tops would you Adam and Eve it 😗
Oh, and the LED interior lights I read about on disco3.co.uk. There's a long thread about them with a company called HIDS4U that supplies them. I also got some reversing lights which make reversing at night very easy and really lights up the ground behind you. The interior lights are superb and have a natural feel, while drawing less power.
Next project: to fit my Osram DRL/fog lights that arrived this morning 😄
That's a typical comment from people who use ordinary VSR type isolators, and they are right.Quote:
Originally Posted by mijango
Mine do not work that way and so far, not a single problem from anyone using my gear in new D4s, and this includes being able to charge any number of house batteries located back in a camper trailer or caravan.
But mijango, let us know when you get back from your trip.
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the BMS monitor current flow through the vehicles negative / earth side, so anything (including and aux battery) drawing current will register in the BMS?